High Up In The Peruvian Andes!
The start of ‘Sector 4’ on our 6 month overland trip through South America began with our return to Peru. With its lush green valleys and mountains of immense proportions, Peru is most definitely hiking country. So as keen walkers, we couldn’t wait to set off on the trail to ‘Laguna 69’, one of the most beautiful sights in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca.
Rewarded with this stunning view after a 3 hour slog uphill!
‘Laguna 69’ is a breathtaking turquoise lake that is literally hugged by snowy mountain peaks, jagged rocks and trickling waterfalls some 4,600 metres above sea level. It is both a steep and demanding ascent beginning at 3,800 metres, but the overriding challenge is being able to cope with the high altitude.
A panorama of the breathtaking turquoise lagoon.
Huaraz – A Haven For Hikers
To help our acclimatisation we stayed in the town of Huaraz for 1 night prior to setting off for the lake. Standing tall at 3,100 metres, Huaraz is a good base for at least a few days. The town has become a haven for hikers and mountain climbers alike due to its stunning location. Flanked by mountains, on one side the dry Cordillera Negra and the other side the snow capped peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, Huaraz is the gateway to a number of hiking opportunities. Most striking is the sight of the massive Huascaran that dominates the skyline. At 6,768 metres, it is the highest peak in Peru.
A stunning drive to the town of Huaraz.
Huaraz is the gateway to many hiking opportunities.
Huascaran National Park
The ‘Laguna 69’ is situated in the Huascaran National Park, which is easily accessible by local transport from the nearby village of Yungay. If you are staying in Huaraz, you can take a public bus to Yungay and then a combi to the National Park. Alternatively, there are numerous tour operators in Huaraz that offer day-hike packages to the lake which include transport, breakfast and a packed lunch for around $45 USD. Being thrifty as ever, we wanted to do the hike independently but rather than taking a public bus then a combi to the start of the trail, we organised private transport so that we could guarantee our return. (We had been told that as it was off-season there were limited buses returning to Huaraz and we may have found it difficult to get back after 4pm).
Our private transport was a minivan that cost us 45 soles each (Approx £10 GBP p/p). The driver picked us up from our hostel at 6am, drove us to the trailhead and waited for us until we returned from the hike, which was around 4pm. Great service for a third of the cost of a package tour!
Entrance to the Huascaran National Park is 10 soles per adult. (£2.50 GBP).
Driving to the trailhead you pass other stunning lakes in the park.
Fantastic flora and fauna.
More stunning scenery to soak up.
We set off on the trail at 9.30am. The ‘Laguna 69’ trail takes around 3 and a half hours to hike up to the lake and around 2 hours to return. For us, this included numerous photographic stops along the way as the views were just incredible! Plus we enjoyed a half hour lunch stop at the lake itself. We were also having to contend with variations in the weather. Experiencing four seasons in a day is an understatement! From wind and rain to hail then sunshine, our waterproofs were on then off in a continuous cycle.
Rich green moss thriving by the river.
Setting off on the correct trail by keeping to the right of the river.
The first section uphill.
A quick breather at the first waterfall.
The first 45 minutes or so takes you through the valley bottom where there are a few stream crossings on strategically placed rocks before reaching the first set of switchbacks. If you are unsure, try to keep to the right of the main river and look for the cairns that have been placed to help you keep to the right path. It is easy to go off trail and take a cattle track so we found the cairns really useful in leading us in the right direction. The first set of switchbacks are long and gentle. It is the high altitude rather than the steepness of the trail that will cause any problems. The switchbacks end at a small lake – not Laguna 69 – which we thought it was going to be!
Are we there yet? The first lake we reached.
More switchbacks to come after the first lake.
The weather turned as we headed higher.
A bit of respite with a flat section on the trail.
Despite the change in weather, there were beautiful views all around. We were told that on a clear day you can even see the twin peaks of Huascaran. We were actually rewarded with this view towards the end of the day during our minivan ride back to the hostel when the clouds covering the top of Huascaran finally cleared.
Striking yellow lichen against the dark jagged peaks.
The towering peaks that loom high above the trail.
A stark contrast in colour as we get higher in elevation.
A panorama of the landscape as we get closer to the lake.
Our first glimpse of the turquoise blue waters over the last ridge.
A Day Hike To Remember
Whilst huffing and puffing up those switchbacks, you can’t fail to be wowed by the stunning scenery all around. There are incredible views of snowcapped peaks, and huge contrasts in the colour and texture of the landscape as you get higher in elevation. The final reward, when you reach the magnificent turquoise water of Laguna 69 and the icy peaks of the surrounding range.
The stunning lake…
A break in the clouds as we reach the lake. Perfect!
Enjoying the lake too! Just one of the many cows along the route.
A perfect spot to enjoy lunch…
Colour co-ordinated Wayne!
As you walk over the final ridge a glimpse of turquoise comes into view. The beautiful high mountain lake is tucked away at the base of the peaks of Pisco and Chacraraju. We felt lucky as just at that moment the sun began to shine and there was a break in the clouds, giving us an amazing view of the lake.
Returning To The Start Of The Trail
The Laguna 69 hike is not a loop. There is a single trail to the lake which means you have to return the same way as you came. The great thing about this hike is that your return is almost all downhill, a pleasant thought whilst undertaking the gruelling last set of switchbacks on the up!
Returning to the first lake. On a calm day there would be beautiful reflections.
Becoming greener as we near the valley floor.
Returning the same way gave us chance to appreciate the beautiful scenery looking down the valley, which proved a lot more spectacular on our way back as the rain had finally stopped.
The sun bathes the mountains in light.
A beautiful spot on our return down the trail.
We had read somewhere that this hike was deemed ‘One of the best day-hikes in South America’. A huge claim, but one that didn’t disappoint us! Peru has certainly captured our hearts and reminded us why we love the great outdoors so much.
The route map for the hike. You can export a GPX/KML file from this by clicking on the Laguna 69 link.
Our next multi-day hike will be to Colca Canyon. If you’ve never heard of it, it’s a canyon of the Colca River in southern Peru that is actually deeper than the Grand Canyon in the USA.
As you can see, Peru isn’t just about Machu Picchu. If you have the time and the inclination, there are many fantastic hikes to be had here. So grab your walking boots and head for the hills. You won’t be disappointed!
32 Comments
Hi there! I'm glad that I found your blog! It helped a lot! I and my boyfriend are preparing a trip to Peru in June for two weeks! I know it is not much time, but it's what we can spend…
It is also our first trip like backpakers (or kind of eheh).
At first, when we start searching things to do in Peru we were overwelmed with the "touristics routes"… and then I found Cordillera Blanca… and I was in love. Have to go there.
And this lake? Oh… I was like "Oh my GOD! So beautiful!!" when I was seeing your pictures!
So once again, thanks for sharing your experience! I will follow your advices certainly! I'm just afraid that we get lost at the Parque Nacional Huascaran, trying to get to the the lake ahahah
Thanks for your comments & taking the time to read our blog! You will certainly be 'wowed' by Laguna 69. Have a fantastic trip! 🙂 If you have any questions just send us a message & we'll be happy to help if we can,
Kind regards, Danielle
Hi guys. As fellow thrifty travellers, we love the idea of trekking Laguna 69 independently, but we just have one question.. Did anybody try and tell you that a guide was essential? The Lonely Planet states that one is required legally. We have come to believe little the LP states so thought it's better to check with people that have actually done it! Thanks.
Hi Emily & Andrew,
Thanks for taking the time to read our blog post and for contacting us!
I'm not sure what it says in the LP as we didn't read it – or what the current legalities are – but when we hiked it last year we didn't use a guide, nor did anyone recommend that we needed one.
If you are confident with navigation it really isn't necessary. The most difficult part is at the beginning keeping to the correct side of the river, then you really just follow a trail. Our minivan driver told us key landmarks to look out for & we looked on a few websites for any other info, much like yourselves.
It's a great hike; the lake is simply stunning when you reach it 🙂
Danielle
Hi! I was wondering what was the hostel that you guys stayed at in Yungay and how were you able to arrange the private transport that waited for you guys to return from your hike? That seems much more convenient compared to the bus
Hi, we didn't stay in Yungay, we stayed in Huaraz at a hostel called Jo's Place. Jo is an English guy who runs it with his Peruvian wife Vicky! They are both lovely 🙂 They organised the minivan transport for us. There was a group of about 12 of us that went from the hostel & it cost us around 10 dollars each. I think they did a guided trip that was approx. $40 pp but being thrifty we opted to do our own thing & just book transport. It is around a 3 hour trip from Huaraz to the national park, but we'll worth it 🙂
Hope that helps!
What gear would you recommend bringing/wearing for this day trek in August?
Hi! Winter in Peru is July to September so in all probability it will be cold and wet! I did a quick Google and the average temperature in August ranges from 3 to -3°C so warm layers & waterproofs are a must if the walk is even possible because of snow/ icy conditions on the trail. I think you need to research this time of year further, as we hiked it in March/April time, which was in different conditions. Thanks for stopping by our blog and asking the question 🙂
In the Huaraz region May to September is known as the "Andean summer" and the dry season, so conditions won't be anything like described above by Danielle! You need to bring layers and waterproof gear anyway, as it can rain at any time of year in the mountains. However it is likely to be very sunny, so bring plenty of sun protection too!
Thanks for your much more accurate advice! As we didn't hike during those months I used Google to find out temperatures and suggested further research was needed. As you can see from our photos we experienced very changeable weather! It's always good to have plenty of layers and sun protection.
Danielle
hi,,,lovely informative descriptive blog,,is there a car way to go reach lake laguna,69,cant do the hike,,but wanna see it,,,
Unfortunately not!!!! In our opinion, most of the world's best views are only accessible on foot! Many of China's mountains do have a cable car service however!!! Hope you get there one day 🙂
Hi Danielle! We're not experienced trekkers…. Did you think it could be a problem to get to Lake 69?
Hi Marilia, I think it really depends on your personal level of fitness and how well you have acclimatised beforehand. We had already spent around a month in Peru and were used to breathing at higher altitudes.We found the trek quite tough especially as we were faced with bad weather during our ascent. If you set off and take it steady, you might be OK – but always be prepared to turn back if you begin to struggle and are finding it more difficult than you expected. Safe & happy hiking in Peru!
Hello, I was just wondering what kind or camera/ lens you used for these photos? They are so beautiful!
Hi Laura, Wayne had already had his good micro 4/3 camera stolen in Quito before this part of our trip, so we both were using 'point & shoot' cameras. Mine was from the Panasonic Lumix TZ range, and Wayne was using our Fujifilm XP range waterproof camera as a substitute. As the scenery was so stunning, both cameras were good enough for landscape shots without having to be overly expensive cameras/ lenses! They just captured what was in front of us 🙂
Hi Danielle! Your write up and photos are amazing! I am also planning an independent trek this April. Is the trail easy to follow? I am not a very good navigator. Thanks!
Hi Angelica,
The route is not always so easy to identify in places. We are going to produce a map of our walking route and add it to this post in the next few weeks. I'll let you know when it's online & hopefully that will help you,
All the best, Danielle
This reply was originally posted on 09/02/16 (It did not transfer over to our new site.)
We have now added a route map for the Laguna 69 hike at the bottom of the original post. You can export a GPX/KML file from this by clicking on the ‘Laguna 69’ link. Hope this helps, & good luck with your hike!
Great blog. How long would you recommend acclimatizing in Huarez before attempting the accent if I am coming from the coast?
This reply was originally posted on 09/02/16 so ignore if you’ve already seen it! (It did not transfer over to our new site.)
Hi Jordan, I am no expert and we can only comment from our own experiences. You really need to use common sense and err on the side of caution. As Huaraz is at 3100m, you need to spend at least a few days/ even a week in town, before tackling Laguna 69 if you have not done any acclimatisation beforehand. We were lucky to have spent a few days in Cusco and around a month altogether in Peru before heading to Huaraz, which was a big help in preventing us from getting altitude sickness. However, others on our trip did suffer, so it is very much dependent on the individual. Be prepared that your first morning could involve a headache and being slightly short of breath. Try and research shorter/ less strenuous treks in the area that may help you acclimatise beforehand. Best of luck, Danielle 🙂
Hey, I’m really happy I found your blog, I really liked the posts and pics. I was wondering, how did you guys hire the driver to take you to the beggining of the trek to Laguna 69? I want to do that too, cause me and my friend are going to do this hike and it is off season already, and we do not want to take a tour.
Did you guys hire the driver online or in person? Do you know how can I hire a driver like that too??
Hope to hear from you guys soon! =)
Thank you sooo much!
Cheers,
Hi Paula, thanks for your great comments about our blog!
We stayed in Huaraz at a hostel called Jo’s Place. Jo is an English guy who runs it with his Peruvian wife Vicky! They are both lovely 🙂 They organised the minivan transport for us. There was a group of about 12 of us that went from the hostel & it cost us around 10 dollars each. (I think they did a guided trip that was approx. $40 pp but being thrifty we opted to do our own thing & just book the transport.) You could stop by the hostel and enquire if they can organise just the transport for you. Regards, Danielle
Hi, thanks for the post. Do you think it is a safe hike for a lone hiker, or is it better to hire a guide in case I don’t buddy up with anyone?
Hi Katerina. I would say it all depends on both your hiking experience and confidence. I wouldn’t have liked to hike it by myself, but I’m not a great navigator – unlike Wayne who would love the solitude and has the confidence to hike alone. If you are in any doubt, I recommend using a guide.
All the best with your trip, Danielle
Hi,
Such a helpful and lovely blog, so glad I found it!
Quick question,
Did you get malaria pills or vaccinations for going on this hike?
thanks
Hi Minori,
We didn’t get malaria tablets specifically for this hike but we did take them for a large majority of our trip as we were travelling around South America for 6 months. We used doxycycline at the time as this was the cheapest but it did make Wayne prone to more sunburn. The best (with least side affects) we have used in the past was malarone, but it was also the most expensive. I recommend checking with your doctor on the latest advice.
Regards, Danielle
Hi there!
Lovely blog! Just wondering how long the trip took total. I understand its a 3hour drive from the closest city. How long is the trek itself and how long does it take to get back down?
Any advice on best way of getting here if flying into Lima? Any other hikes/things to do that you loved and would recommend?
Thanks again!
Rebecca
Beautiful pictures! Thanks for the advice
Karina
Thanks for reading the blog and taking the time to comment Karina, it’s much appreciated! Danielle 🙂
Thank you for the really useful blog… planning trip for next year..
Thank you! It is an incredible place 🙂 Have a wonderful trip,
Best regards, Danielle & Wayne