“Never forget how far you’ve come. Everything you have gotten through. All the times you have pushed on even when you felt you couldn’t. All the mornings you got out of bed no matter how hard it was. All the times you wanted to give up but you got through another day. Never forget how much strength you have learned and developed”.
– Akshat Gupta
The Twenty-Third Week – A Race Against The Snow!
Faced with deteriorating weather as we hiked through Washington, we were starting to develop a love-hate relationship with the trail.
We can’t quite believe it – but we have reached the penultimate week of our PCT adventure! At the start of our journey back in April it seemed a lifetime away. Yet as we celebrate our five month anniversary on the trail, we are almost down to single figures with regards to how many days we have left to walk the remaining 267 miles, and equally important, how many nights we have left to sleep in a tent!
Day 155 – Tuesday, 11th September 2018, The Summit Inn, Snoqualmie Pass, Highway 90 at Mile 2,393 to Wild Camp by Lemah Meadow at Mile 2,414, 21 miles
After our impromptu overnight stay at the Summit Inn at Snoqualmie Pass due to persistent heavy rain yesterday, we now had no time to spare and needed to make up more miles if we were to stay on schedule for our September 23rd finish date. However, despite our good intentions for getting back on trail before 9am today, we didn’t actually leave the Summit Inn until two hours later – the main reason being that it was STILL raining. After going to great efforts to get everything dry, (not to mention the extra expense at having paid for a hotel room), we simply couldn’t face walking outside to be instantaneously soaked through in another heavy downpour.
So instead, we sat in the hotel reception area debating our options whilst waiting for fellow thru-hikers Eleven and St Bernard to join us. (Enjoying breakfast in the adjoining Pancake House, they were also stalling for time). With it looking extremely bleak out there, we all knew that the trail was not going to be fun today. But we really had no alternative other than to toughen up and get back outside in the hope that the showers would subside some time soon.
Psyching ourselves up for the soaking that was guaranteed to come, we finally headed outside around 11am and walked a little way up Highway 90 to re-join the PCT at the Snoqualmie Pass trailhead. Legs and St Bernard were now in front of us making use of their hiking umbrellas to protect them from the rain, a nifty piece of kit we had omitted from our gear list to save a few grams as we didn’t think it would get much overall use. Right at this moment though, an umbrella would have proved invaluable in Washington. Following behind just as disheartened as us at such a miserable day were Pete and Emily, Snack Pack and Blueberry who had also stayed overnight at the Summit Inn. Donning a bright yellow poncho that completely covered both herself and her backpack, it was Blueberry however that appeared to have had the best idea for keeping out the rain with her impulse purchase of an inexpensive disposable poncho from the gas station. Why hadn’t we spotted those at the counter?
Trying to stay upbeat in spite of the dreadful weather, our mood then changed to one of alarm after hearing from Snack Pack that a woman had recently fallen from a ridge near to PCT Mile 2,399 and had sadly died from her injuries. After finding out that it had happened less than a week ago, we were now particularly concerned and apprehensive about hiking that section of the PCT in the current conditions. The persistent rain meant that the trail was now saturated and the rocky sections had become very slippery in places. With the terrible news at the forefront of our minds, we agreed that we would all stick together and hike within range of each other today. Even though our preference is to hike by ourselves, having the support of a ‘trail family’ really does give you some reassurance, and today we were grateful of having other people around.
A shot from the GoPro – Walking through low cloud and continuous rain showers today!
After entering the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, we then took it steady traversing the ridge below Kendall Peak, known as Kendall Katwalk, from which the 64 year-old hiker had fallen 300 feet from the steep slope. Cautiously moving forward with every step along the waterlogged trail, it was such a relief to finally reach the 2,400 PCT Mile Marker! Not only did it signify that we had made it half way through Washington state but also that this worrying section north of Snoqualmie Pass was now over.
A pained smile on reaching the 2,400 mile marker! We were relying heavily on the performance of our waterproof gear today. (In case you’re wondering, I changed from waterproof trousers to shorts as I got too hot when hiking up the switchbacks.)
Unfortunately as the weather didn’t improve much throughout the afternoon, we only took a handful of photos during the entire day. With the rain consistently coming down in torrents, we just put our heads down and ploughed on regardless, taking only two quick snack breaks in ten hours of walking. From Snoqualmie Pass at 2,993 feet, the high point of our day had been hiking around Chikamin Peak taking us up to 5,598 feet, which doesn’t seem very high at all in comparison with the Sierra, but as there had been a lot of elevation change throughout the day we could certainly feel it in our legs. Passing by several mountain lakes that were shrouded in low cloud, it was disappointing that we couldn’t see them in all their glory. However, we were buoyed somewhat when we spotted three grey and white marmots camouflaged against the rocks standing guard outside their burrows. If the marmots were out it was a sure sign of the rain abating, which would give us some reprieve for a while at least.
Powering up the switchbacks carved into the mountainside leading to Delate Meadow, we were surprised that by the time we reached the top the cloud had lifted. We were even treated to a couple of fleeting appearances from the sun, it’s delicate rays lighting up Spectacle Lake below us. With water the colour of a deep sapphire blue, the lake looked stunning as it revealed itself from behind the lifting cloud.
A momentary spectacle – Through the dispersing clouds, the sun lights up the dark sapphire waters of Spectacle Lake.
We had departed from Snoqualmie with the intention of camping at Lemah Meadow at PCT Mile 2,416. However it was now already getting dark having left the hotel far too late in the day. So with our head torches out lighting the way, we still had six miles to go to reach our intended target. (Again we swore that this would be the very last time that we would hike during the night!) And really we should have followed our own advice as we ended up taking the wrong trail when we came to a junction with the PCT. With it being dark, we had continued going in the same direction and not realised our mistake until about a mile further on when we reached Lemah Creek. We should have trusted our initial instincts that things didn’t seem right as the trail we had been following had become both narrow and overgrown unlike the wider, well-trodden condition of the PCT. Also, when we brushed past the vegetation that was obstructing our path, it was still very wet, which signalled to us that no one had walked that way before us knocking off the excess water.
With it being dark and not wanting to retrace our steps to go back a mile on such a gnarly trail, we ended up having to ford the creek as there wasn’t a bridge or even the option of a rock hop to help us cross. As well as being freezing cold, the water was fast-flowing and knee-deep in places and at this hour it really wasn’t the time to get wet shoes. However we just couldn’t face the alternative of having to walk back to the PCT, which may have resulted in a similar scenario of us having to ford the creek anyway as we had heard via trail talk that the bridge crossing on that section had been washed out. (Earlier that morning I thought I was being clever wearing my waterproof socks. What an epic fail that turned out to be! With the water level of the creek coming up to my knee as we crossed, all that my socks did afterwards was hold the water firmly inside!)
To our good fortune, this rarely used side trail that we unwittingly found ourselves on in fact runs parallel with the PCT. So thankfully we managed to rejoin it after fighting our way through the undergrowth for another mile or so. Cold, tired and miserable, we got to camp around 9:30pm, when luckily the rain had stopped long enough for us to set the tent up and get inside before it started spitting again. There were already three other tents pitched in the vicinity but we didn’t know who they belonged to. With the flash of a head torch lighting up our tent not long afterwards, Blueberry then unexpectedly turned up at camp. With us taking the wrong trail, we hadn’t expected anyone to still be behind us. However, she had taken the wrong trail as well and done exactly the same as us, avoiding turning back by crossing the creek in the dark. (Except that Blueberry had crossed the creek alone, which had shaken her up somewhat, as we later found out the next morning.)
It had been one of those days where we both said that we can’t stand to endure two more weeks of this! If the rain continued, then the ‘end’ couldn’t come soon enough and we’d be counting down the days just to finish. That was not how we envisaged it – nor how we wanted our PCT adventure to conclude.
Day 156 – Wednesday, 12th September 2018, Wild Camp by Lemah Meadow at Mile 2,414 to Wild Camp at Mile 2,440, 26 miles
It seems like the last few days have gone by in a blur. With no views to speak of because of the grim weather, it’s simply been a case of putting our heads down and powering out the miles through the pouring rain whether we like it or not. Hence, after waking up to another gloomy sky we were feeling very dispirited this morning, with the remainder of our journey to Canada on-foot becoming more and more akin to a ‘death march’ after all. (This is in reference to the advice given by a SOBO section hiker we met in Northern California who emphasised how much we should enjoy the trail and not let our thru-hike become a ‘death march’ to Canada!) Despite the finish line now almost within touching distance, it was getting harder and harder to stay positive and motivated, especially with an overwhelming feeling of ‘rinse and repeat’ permeating our whole being.
Waking up to another wet morning in Washington, we felt like we were no longer hiking for the love of it. We were just pushing on to get the miles done in order to make it to Canada and conclude our journey.
On the plus side, unlike in the desert, there was no shortage of water!
The cloud begins to break to reveal a lush section of forested hills in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.
Winding through lakes and high country, we were beginning to enjoy the views from the crest of the Cascades as the rain clouds finally began to disperse.
After setting off under another dull sky and walking a couple of miles through fine drizzle, our spirits were raised somewhat by a spectacular view looking onto Waptus Lake. With the clouds beginning to clear and the weather now improving a little, we decided to take the opportunity to stop and boil some water to make some much-needed hot coffee. With a good vantage point looking onto the lake, it seemed the ideal rest-stop to warm ourselves through and remove our waterproofs.
The break in the rain was short-lived however. No sooner had we sat down with Legs and St Bernard (aka Jess and Jarrod – we have started using their real names now as we have come to know them very well) than it began raining once again, this time coming down heavily in sheets, which was much worse than before. Jess and Jarrod quickly took cover under their umbrellas, whereas we just sat there getting wet, laughing at our own predicament. (We had to laugh at our terrible timing otherwise on our own, I would quite easily have just sat and cried with Wayne looking on helpless as to what to do to console me!) It is said that ‘A problem shared is a problem halved‘ and with other hikers being around experiencing the exact same thing as us, it somehow didn’t seem quite so bad!
Our first glimpse of the serene and spectacular Waptus Lake.
Stopping for a much-needed snack break before the rain lashed down, even heavier than before.
Thankfully it was another passing shower and the rain cleared again before long. Conscious that we had taken very few photos over the last couple of days, we were keen to get out our cameras at every available ‘dry’ opportunity to try and capture the beauty of Washington whenever it revealed itself to us from behind the clouds. And our walk through the Alpine Lakes Wilderness heading towards Deception Pass really was beautiful.
Maybe a forced smile, but at least the rain cleared long enough for us to see the tremendous mountainscape we were walking into.
Whilst we had good reason to complain about the weather, we couldn’t complain about the trail. The PCT here is in excellent condition with us enjoying well-groomed and maintained pathways, as well as new signs along this segment.
Reflections of the sky on a calm and still Waptus Lake.
Looking towards Bears Breast Mountain above Waptus Lake.
Making our way up to Dutch Miller Gap, Bears Breast Mountain at 7,197 feet, dominates the skyline.
Making the most of the break in the rain, we pushed on to the Waptus River at PCT Mile 2,427.8 where we decided to stop and make lunch. Not knowing how well we would fare closer to our intended camp spot, we boiled water and cooked our hot meal now instead of later. As there was a relatively dry section of boulders alongside the river, we also thought it would be a good place to attempt to dry out our tent fly with the help of the breeze whistling through the valley. When we crossed the bridge to gain access to the riverside, it was a case of ‘great minds think alike’ as Jess and Jarrod and Emily and Pete were already there doing the exact same thing.
Looking onto the Waptus River where we decided to stop and filter water for a ‘hot’ lunch.
From the bridge we could see other thru-hikers already cooking lunch and attempting to dry out their tents as we had intended on doing.
Making the most of the relatively sheltered spot beside the Waptus River, we decided to change things up and cook our hot meal at lunchtime instead of later.
Today’s ‘trail kitchen’ menu consisted of ‘Spaghetti with Cream Cheese, Pesto and Spam’. We also added a chopped courgette, courtesy of the kind soul who had left it in the ‘Hiker Box’ at the Summit Inn.
After a tasty trail lunch that provided us with a satisfying burst of energy as well as a good boost to morale, the rest of the day was spent hiking determinedly until well after dark. With no longer enough daylight hours for the 25-mile days we need to complete, our anticipated arrival at camp was around 9pm, which meant yet again our head torches would be put into action as we hiked through the dark.
After heading up several long switchbacks, we found ourselves atop a thick wooded ridge. Illuminated only by the tunnel of light from our head torches, we were apprehensive as to where we would camp as there didn’t seem to be any clearings along the thin spine we were now traversing. With the trees towering above us blocking out the stars, it was rather unnerving to look down from the ridge into complete darkness. It felt like such a long way down into apparent ‘nothingness’. Continuing on and trying not to think too much about falling off the edge, we finally reached the campsite we had earmarked using the Guthooks app that was directly below Cathedral Rock at PCT Mile 2,440. Already setting up camp there we found Snack Pack, Blueberry, Emily and Pete but thankfully it was an area deemed large enough to fit five tents as we didn’t have the energy nor the inclination to push on any further.
From what had been a miserable start earlier that morning, overall the day had evolved into somewhat of a ‘nice’ day on trail with some superb views. As we lay in our sleeping bags mulling over the events of the day, we both agreed that it could have been far worse! For instance, we could have taken the wrong trail or even had to ford a creek last minute before setting up camp leaving us to deal with wet shoes in the morning – as per last night! Generally speaking, we were happy. The most important thing was that we had made it to our target mile, which would keep us on track for staying at the Mountaineers Lodge at Stevens Pass tomorrow night. (Another initially ‘unplanned’ but much-needed overnight stop we were treating ourselves to, to get us through our final days on the PCT!)
Day 157 – Thursday, 13th September 2018, Wild Camp at Mile 2,440 to the Mountaineers Lodge, Stevens Pass at Mile 2,464 (+1), 25 miles
Today we were up at 6am and trying our best to get packed away in super, fast time as we were aiming to reach the Mountaineers Lodge at Stevens Pass in readiness for dinner that evening, which we were told was served around 6:30pm. With the skies looking a little clearer, we thought that we could just about cover the twenty-five miles in time if we took minimal breaks today on trail. And miraculously, with being ready and away before anyone else at camp, the challenge was on.
Waking up to cloudy skies but thankfully not a spot of rain. Passing a herd of mule deer who were far too busy foraging for food to be disturbed by us.
Dark clouds begin to roll in again across the valley.
Our hope for an improvement in the weather was fairly short-lived however. No sooner had we got back on the trail, than dark clouds rolled in again across the valley and a deluge of rain hit the mountains. Making our way up to Deception Pass, we tried to take cover under some trees to avoid the worst of it. Hastily putting on our waterproof layers, we ended up staying put for almost an hour as one by one Snack Pack, Pete and Emily, and Blueberry each caught up to us and sought refuge under the trees as well. By now it was 11am, and our hope of reaching the Mountaineers Lodge in time for dinner was dwindling fast as we still had around 19 miles to go to reach Stevens Pass.
With the rain still coming down in sheets, we knew our pace would be dramatically slowed during the course of the afternoon. So we resigned ourselves to the fact that we wouldn’t be sitting down to a hot meal provided by the Lodge that evening, consoling ourselves instead with the thought of a warm, dry bed to sleep in once we finally arrived. Having the opportunity to dry out the tent in the Lodge’s ‘drying room’ was also key to us deciding on staying the night there, as again we would be spending money from our budget that we hadn’t initially planned for. However right at this moment it was a case of every dollar spent on keeping us dry and comfortable was a dollar well spent! With these thoughts now our prime motivation (and not being able to put it off any longer), we finally braved the bleak weather and strode off into the rainstorm with our hoods up and heads down.
Seeing ‘Stevens Pass’ on a trail sign gave us a little lift to our spirits!
With our cameras safely stowed away in our packs, it was another day of minimal pictures, with much of the scenery obscured by heavy cloud anyway. Continuing northward, the PCT enters Snohomish County and passes by the entertainingly named Surprise Mountain and Surprise Lake. It then weaves around a series of other small alpine lakes including Glacier Lake, before switchbacking down through the Stevens Pass Mountain Resort to where it meets Highway 2 at the base of Stevens Pass ski area. Fortunately by the time we were descending to Stevens Pass, the rain had dwindled off, which gave us some encouragement for the final push to the Mountaineers Lodge (which we quickly discovered isn’t that easy to find!).
The clouds begin to lift as we start our descent to Stevens Pass.
After what felt like a long day navigating our way through a remote section of the PCT, we finally arrived at the Mountaineers Lodge just before 7pm. (This photo was actually taken the next morning as it was already dark when we arrived.)
On the final section leading downhill to Stevens Pass, there are signs along the PCT explaining to hikers how to find the Mountaineers Lodge. It is set back in the woods up the hillside behind the ski area and you have to go through a car park next to the ‘Maintenance Area’ to access the road leading to it. However we neither read the instructions carefully enough nor took a photo of them (unlike Legs and St Bernard who, from being around a mile behind us, beat us there through their pro-activeness). We put our lack of foresight down to trail fatigue, so after taking the wrong turning and not wanting to hike back, we ended up making our own route and scrambling up the hillside. Clambering through the dirt, clawing at roots and branches to help us get to the top and gain access to the lodge was not an ideal end to the day. But the redeeming factor was that we had actually made it in time for dinner!
Arriving at the Lodge just before 7pm, we were ecstatic to find out that dinner hadn’t yet been served. With the dreadful weather hindering everyone’s progress today, around fifty thru-hikers had descended on the lodge seeking refuge for the night. It was the biggest influx of hikers the lodge had seen this season and catering for all of us had the amazing group of volunteers hastily cooking up extra food in the kitchen, so we were in luck as they were still busy preparing dinner. For the princely sum of just $30 each, we would get dinner, a single bed each with mattress in a heated dorm room, shower, plus breakfast in the morning! We could also use the drying room and common room facilities such as kettle, coffee/ tea, lounge area, games and books. It is an excellent set-up and we were so glad that we included an overnight stop at the Mountaineers Lodge in our amended itinerary. After another long, dreary day just getting through the miles – it was another much-needed pick-me-up to keep us going!
Bagsying a bed and organising our stuff before dinner.
The rustic, cosy cabin that has a very welcoming and ‘homely’ feel.
After hearing the shrill shout of “Dinner!” echoing through the cabin, everyone was lined up at the kitchen counter within a matter of seconds eager for some home-cooked food. Tonight’s menu consisted of ‘Spaghetti Bolognese’ (vegan option available) with mixed salad and corn bread, followed by either ‘Chocolate Brownie’ or ‘Apple Pie’. Crammed onto benches around two large tables, and with no airs and graces, everyone devoured their food like it was a friendly gathering at the ‘Last Supper’. More excitement ensued when we then heard the words “Seconds” reverberate around the room!
Chatting with Snack Pack, Pete and Emily, Blueberry, Legs and St Bernard, Gotham and Picnic until well after 11pm it was not only a safe haven from the dreadful weather but also a perfect place for socialising. With the fire roaring and our bellies full, we’d all be sleeping well tonight. The only problem we could foresee the lodge as having by morning (apart from running out of food) – would anyone actually want to leave?
Day 157 – Friday, 14th September 2018, The Mountaineers Lodge, Stevens Pass at Mile 2,464 to Wild Camp at Mile 2,487, 23 miles
In spite of my initial reservations about bunking down in a room with 20+ people last night, we didn’t have too bad a sleep. Utter exhaustion coupled with the comfort of being indoors won over the coughs and the snores, so we were able to get in a good seven hours. Feeling well-rested, the hearty cooked breakfast of scrambled eggs and hashed browns that we then awoke to really set us up for the day. We had mentally prepared ourselves for another cold, foggy and wet morning but when we left the Mountaineers Lodge around 9:30am we were pleased to see that it was dry and the cloud layer had lifted. Don’t get me wrong – it was still overcast, the dark clouds hovering above the valley looking menacing and threatening rain for later. But for now we had to make the most of the dry spell and put some miles in. Today we would be starting what is known as ‘Washington Section K’, crossing 127 miles from Stevens Pass (Highway 2) to Rainy Pass (Highway 20). With multiple lung-busting climbs and sharp descents, it is regarded as the longest and toughest section of the PCT. It is also one of the most remote. Therefore we needed to take advantage of the better weather as in Washington at this time of year, it could take a turn for the worse at any time.
Leaving the Mountaineers Lodge from back in the woods and heading downhill to the Stevens Pass Ski Resort area.
Visiting the Granite Peaks Lodge to collect our resupply package.
Heading out of Stevens Pass around 10:30am.
Stopping off at the Granite Peaks Lodge in the Stevens Pass Ski Resort area to collect our next resupply box, we also bought and drank cans of Monster Energy to give us an extra spring in our step before making our way across the highway to the Stevens Pass trailhead. We weren’t sure how many of our thru-hiker friends we’d see on trail today as most of them were hitching into the nearby town of Skykomish to collect their resupply packages from the Post Office having sent them there instead of Stevens Pass. But with everyone still pushing for a similar end date, we knew they’d catch back up with us, if not today, over the next couple of days.
Eager to cover some miles, we enjoyed the clearer views and easier grade of trail, which enabled us to hit our regular pace of three miles an hour (something we hadn’t felt we’d been able to do in a while). Before long we had crossed into the Henry M. Jackson Wilderness and were pointing our cameras in every direction avidly making up for the lack of photos this week as the area was so beautiful. Created by the 1984 Washington Wilderness Act, this 103,297-acre designated ‘wilderness area’ is named after former U.S. Senator Henry M. Jackson of Washington who was instrumental in the designation of many of the state’s wildernesses during his time in office.
Pleased to have some clear views today and even a little piece of blue sky through a break in the cloud.
The Henry M. Jackson Wilderness is part of the 110 million acre ‘National Wilderness Preservation System’ in the US which provides clean air, water, and habitat critical for rare and endangered plants and animals.
Taking a rock hop across the clear waters of Nason Creek.
Climbing to just under 5,000 feet as we made our way up to Union Gap we were rewarded with some wonderful mountain views under dramatic skies.
The trail continues to wind its way across forested mountainsides showcasing the changing colours of fall.
Another creek crossing but thankfully no wet feet!
The colourful palette of autumn sweeps across the trail.
Wild red berries of Washington.
Enjoying a drier day on trail but it was no less dramatic as storm clouds continued to hover above the surrounding peaks.
Pausing to take in the expansive views of the forested mountains.
From a ridge walk to long stretches wandering through high mountain meadow, the trail was treating us to all kinds of scenery today.
Passing by pretty patches of berries entwined with rich evergreen foliage.
More ‘unknown’ berries, which we deemed unlikely to be edible based purely on their colour.
Looking down onto Glasses Lake as we hiked closer to Grizzly Peak.
Another nice, easy-going section of trail that helped us make good time.
Hiking through more colourful fall foliage on what had been a beautifully varied day in the wilderness.
With the rain holding off, we felt like we had been blessed by the trail gods today.
Having spoken to several other thru-hikers at various snack and water breaks along the trail throughout the day, it seemed like most were heading to Pear Lake just off the PCT at Mile 2,482 to look for a place to camp that evening. Knowing then that it was likely to be a busy spot with so many hikers leaving the Mountaineers Lodge that morning, we decided to push on a further five miles to a tent site marked on our maps just before Saddle Gap. In terms of time, it would take us another couple of hours to get there, which would mean us hiking past sunset. But it would be worth the extra effort if the spot was less crowded.
Bypassing Pear Lake and looking for a place to camp further on before reaching Saddle Gap.
After tackling a series of climbs and descents throughout the day, we felt tired and were more than ready to stop and make camp when we finally arrived around 8pm. We hadn’t quite managed 25 miles, but 23 miles was a respectable distance after not leaving Stevens Pass until mid-morning. We had also managed to get there before the heavens opened, which made us happy as everything including the tent was now dry after a good airing at the lodge last night. Our final view of the day was from camp where we were treated to a fleeting glimpse of Glacier Peak on the distant horizon. It was mostly obscured by dark clouds sweeping across the mountains, but it was something we had to look forward to over the coming days. As the wildest of the Washington Cascade volcanoes, Glacier Peak would now be constantly up ahead, like a beacon, luring us on the entire way to Cloudy Pass at PCT Mile 2,552, where we would then have to take another alternate trail because of a fire closure around Bannock Lakes.
Our dramatic view from camp. On the distant skyline sits Glacier Peak shrouded in dark cloud.
Day 158 – Saturday, 15th September 2018, Wild Camp at Mile 2,487 to Wild Camp by Baekos Creek at Mile 2,509, 22 miles
We had been extremely lucky with the weather yesterday, however we knew that the rainstorms would hit at some point. Thankfully, they came during the night so at least we were in the comfort of our tent at the time and our gear had not been exposed to the elements. We could deal with a wet tent fly, but putting on wet clothes to start the day is never much fun! Unlike yesterday’s encouraging start waking up in a warm, cosy cabin, the new morning was both cold and damp with a forecast that was fairly miserable. But as luck would have it, when we ventured out of the tent the rain had stopped enabling us to get packed away without the hassle of everything being rained on. With sunrise getting later and it still feeling dull because of the dark clouds overhead, we really hadn’t wanted to get out of our sleeping bags. So it was with much less enthusiasm than yesterday that we set off along the trail knowing that we needed the full 12 hours of daylight to cover our intended target distance of 25 miles.
Putting all of our layers to good use on the cold, damp mornings we were now experiencing in Washington.
The lush forested hills were a wonderful spectacle after walking through so many burn areas in Northern California and Oregon.
Meandering around the mountainsides it was a joy to witness the changing colour of the dense vegetation.
After a soggy start brushing past the wet vegetation alongside the trail, we then enjoyed a lovely ridge walk taking us out onto the open mountainsides. Covered in thick, low-growing brush it was a thrill to see the changing colours of the alpine tundra as we rounded each ridge. In every direction was the most beautiful mountainous scenery giving credence to the statement I had read somewhere claiming that “The most ‘wow-worthy’ sections of the Pacific Crest Trail are in Washington”. It was just a shame that the sun didn’t come out to light up the colourful fells. Despite the continuous change in elevation again, the ridge walking generally kept us high and we couldn’t really complain with being afforded extensive views across each of the valleys towards the different mountain ranges.
Enjoying a cool, crisp, colourful walk through the mountains.
Today the trail followed a series of undulations taking us around the eastern flank of Skykomish Peak.
Vegetation the changing shades of yellow, crimson and scarlet cloaked the mountainsides.
Hiking over Cady Pass towards Skykomish Peak, the views were just wonderful.
Looking back to the tree-lined ridge we had just walked down from.
After skirting Skykomish Peak, we decided to take a snack break at Lake Sally Ann, at PCT Mile 2,493.5 whilst we had a break in the cloud and it remained dry. A little sunshine to brighten up the morning was maybe too much to hope for, but as long as it didn’t rain again we were happy and could push on towards the Glacier Peak Wilderness with relative ease.
We took a quick pit-stop at Lake Sally Ann, which had beautiful reflections in its mirror-like surface.
The water in the lake was both still and crystal clear.
After hiking a total of 11 miles so far that day, we then stopped for a lunch a break by a small spring near Indian Creek. We had opted to have our hot meal for lunch whilst we had another good weather window allowing us to filter water for hot drinks and cook without the hindrance of a rain shower. On today’s trail kitchen menu was a new dish which consisted of ‘Chinese flavoured broccoli and beef rice’ mixed with a packet of pre-cooked ‘Soy chicken’. It wasn’t quite the taste sensation we were expecting but it was nice to try something with a different flavour. In the time that we took to cook and clean the pots, we also managed to dry out the tent fly and pick a tub’s worth of blueberries from the bushes nearby.
Only three people had hiked past us over the duration of the morning, but they were none of the thru-hikers we already knew. After she had camped at Pear Lake, we thought that Picnic might catch us as she’s a very fast hiker, but we hadn’t seen her as yet. Looking back to where we had just come from, we could vaguely see the shapes of two people on top of the ridge hiking with umbrellas. We hoped it was Jarrod and Jess, but at that distance they were just too far away for us to tell. (It was a good guess however seeing as we hadn’t seen anyone else hiking with umbrellas since the desert to shade them from the overbearing sun. Oh, how I longed for those hot, summer days again!) Finally reaching the top of White Pass at PCT Mile 2,502 (somehow we had missed the 2,500 trail marker), we needed a pack break and a quick energy boost by way of a snack bar. No sooner had we took off our packs than a sudden snow shower blew in, freaking both of us out. Was the weather in Washington about to take another dramatic turn for the worse? To our great relief, it was over within a matter of minutes but it was a definite warning that mid-September in the Northern Cascades could bring changeable and more challenging conditions. We had read that dangerous winter snowstorms with several feet (or more) of snow historically happen shortly before October 1st about 20% of the time. We were just praying that this September would fall within the 80% region of that not happening!
Crossing the Dishpan Gap.
Looking down onto the North Fork Sauk River meandering through the valley.
Reaching the Glacier Peak Wilderness boundary at PCT Mile 2,496.9.
Continuing on to White Pass before being surprised by a fleeting flurry of snow.
After the snow storm occurring at the top of White Pass, we had packed away our cameras again, which meant there were no further photos from the rest of the day. With the top of the pass reaching almost 6,000 feet, we then had another small climb to Red Pass before a long descent into the White Chuck River valley, passing to the east of the White Chuck Cinder Cone. Descending around 2,000 feet over 7 miles, when we reached a tent site at PCT Mile 2,509 near to Baekos Creek, we immediately decided to set up camp and call it a day. It was two miles short of our intended target, but we really wanted to pitch the tent in the light and with the camp area being under the cover of some trees we thought it would be a relatively dry spot should it rain again during the night. As we were setting up we were surprised when Pete, Emily and Snack Pack arrived. Having hiked all the way from Pear Lake (located five miles behind where we had started from today), they had successfully completed a big hiking day and in good time as well. It was great to see them all again, but instead of a night of camaraderie around an empty fire ring, it was an early night for all of us as we were all exhausted after the day’s events.
Day 159 – Sunday, 16th September 2018, Wild Camp by Baekos Creek at Mile 2,509 to Wild Camp just before Milk Creek at Mile 2,524, 15 miles
Even though the weather forecast was telling us that today was going to be the worst day out of the week, we started off with some positivity hoping that the rain wouldn’t be as heavy as expected and that it would clear up throughout the day. As expected, it was raining when we woke up at 5:45am but by the time we were ready to take down the tent at 7am we had a dry spell. So we took the brief window of opportunity to get packed up and get on our way. The dry spell was short-lived however. It wasn’t long before it was raining again and we were already soaked through from brushing past the overgrown vegetation encroaching onto the trail.
The first part of the day saw us gradually heading uphill, but the trail was not on the lovely open ridges we had enjoyed yesterday. Instead it took us through densely populated areas of forested, where we found ourselves fighting our way through thick undergrowth and having to contend with clambering over and ducking under several tree blow downs that were obstructing the trail. We also had to navigate a broken bridge to get across Kennedy Creek, and even though it was early in the day, the water was already fast-flowing due to the continuous downpour. Worse still, because of so much rain over the past few days, the trail was fast becoming a giant pathway of slippery mud, so we had to watch our every step, which really slowed us down. Frustrated at not being able to get anywhere close to a 3-mile-an-hour pace, we quickly became wet and miserable and began wishing to be anywhere but here.
After crossing Chetwot Creek at PCT Mile 2,510 and the trail itself turning into a river of gushing water as the ground was so saturated creating an enormous amount of run off, our hopes of the day improving quickly diminished. Even more unwelcome was the heavy snow storm we then had to contend with when we reached the top of the first climb that put us directly below Glacier Peak. Every tent site we had passed on the way up still had occupants and we now understood why. The hikers still taking refuge inside their tents prudently had the foresight and good sense to stay put and wait out the bad weather.
Already being wet, now with the wind chill factor as well as the settling snow, the tops of my shoes were covered in ice, which I rapidly had to shake off. It was so cold that we both couldn’t feel our fingertips and our feet were like blocks of ice. Our dislike for hiking in the rain seemed trivial now in comparison to hiking through a barrage of snow that lashed our faces and quickly covered the trail. It had turned into one of our worst hiking days to date – but not just because of the extreme bad weather we were now experiencing. We have encountered harsh, cold, wet weather in the Lake District in England as well as on the Kungsleden Trail in Sweden, but what made today particularly worse in our minds was that we had no chance of bailing out. To put it simply, there was no exit route. In the Lakes, there is usually a route down that leads to a warm, cosy pub and likewise in Sweden, within 10 miles or so there will be a hut or shelter with a fire to get warm and dry by at the bare minimum. Here, in Northern Washington however, the PCT was going through true wilderness where we were finding ourselves increasingly remote and cut off from civilisation. If we needed a ‘get out’, we either turned back to the Mountaineers Lodge, now over 50 miles away, or continued on to the community of Holden, located a little less than 50 miles away in the other direction. That was not really a good situation to be in should we encounter any real difficulty.
After pushing on through the snow storm and debating our options, we worked out a ‘Plan B’ and decided that once we had hiked down to the bottom of the river valley we would set up camp at the lower elevation where the temperature should be a little warmer and we could get our wet gear off and dry out in the tent. There was no way we would push on for the next big climb as we would be back above 5,000 feet and facing snow once more. It wouldn’t have been so bad had we not already been so wet. Even the best waterproof gear reaches saturation point after several hours of persistent rain. Our shoes, socks, gloves, and sleeves were all soaked through. We were just thankful to be wearing gillets which were doing a good job keeping our torsos warm.
It was getting increasingly difficult to be in a good mood and stay optimistic and positive and at one point after fighting my way through some overgrown bushes and getting another soaking, I had tears streaming down my face. After a long, slow descent from the pass, we finally found somewhere to set the tent up around 5pm, just before reaching Milk Creek. As we had been hiking down a series of switchbacks along a forested ridge, the only barely suitable place to camp before the river was a small blow down area with a few tent spots. The ground was already soggy, so we were more than dubious about how well our tent would fare even with a ground sheet, and the biggest area was still not really large enough for out tent footprint so Wayne was unable to get a good, taut pitch. The redeeming factor however was that we were sheltered by the surrounding trees and for now at least, the rain had stopped.
Having only covered 15 miles or so today, we were really disappointed with our progress, but we were still ahead of everyone else who had left the Mountaineers Lodge around the same time as not a single soul had passed us the entire day. Snack Pack had caught up with us at one point but then she stopped for a break under some trees to warm her hands up and put on extra layers and we didn’t see her again. We hoped that she had decided to pitch before reaching the pass knowing the dreadful conditions we had been faced with. To our pleasant surprise, Jarrod and Jess hurried into camp about half an hour after us. Like Blueberry, they had also had the good foresight to buy cheap ponchos from the gas station at Snoqualmie, which covered both themselves and their packs. By the sounds of it though, they’d had just as tough a day as us so they were pleased to see us for some friendly company. (It also felt good to be making camp so early.) A bit of solidarity in the face of adversity can really lift the spirits. On the trail it definitely helps to know when others are having just as rubbish a time as you! They said that they were now well and truly out of their comfort zone and they would have struggled getting down from the pass without our footsteps in the snow to follow. They’d been told by someone who had set up camp before the pass that ‘The Brits’ were about half an hour ahead, so that gave them the motivation to keep going until they caught up with us.
Safely cocooned inside our tents, with the added feeling of security now that we had neighbours, we set about getting ourselves dry and warm, changing into our bed-clothes and making some hot soup. Already the bitter cold was not so intense at 3,000 feet, but we knew that the snow showers we had experienced at the higher elevations would turn to rain at this altitude. And indeed it came. We were fortunate to have set up when we did though as from around 6pm until midnight the rain hammered down. If you’ve ever camped in the rain and sat still just listening to the raindrops on the tent, it can often sound worse than what it really is if you dare to venture outside. Tonight however, this was not the case. These were huge, incessant raindrops that didn’t let up for hours. With our tent fly already soaked from yesterday, it was struggling to perform its main function of keeping the inside dry, so we spent the next couple of hours wiping away drips from the inner lining and mopping up seepages from the tent floor. It was grim, and there was no chance of getting any of our wet gear dry that was now piled in the vestibules. The one thing we desperately wanted to keep dry (literally being our life-saving piece of kit) was our sleeping bags, which were now fluffed up nicely and toasty warm keeping me from having another melt down.
I had been bursting to go to the toilet during the entire time that the rain was falling but just couldn’t bring myself to get out of the comfort of the tent now that I was finally warm and dry. So midnight it was when I finally had no choice but to brave the elements. Meanwhile, Wayne sent for a weather update on the Garmin which gave a better outlook for tomorrow. How accurate that will be though we’re yet to find out. After such an awful day we have confirmed to ourselves that we are really 3-season hikers, and fair weather hikers at that! With the Californian desert now a distant memory, I can say for sure that overall, it was my most enjoyable section of trail. Both Jarrod and Jess and myself and Wayne agreed that today would now be known as ‘The day thou shalt not be mentioned‘. It was that bad for all of us! And we didn’t even get a single picture of any of it. We now just have 7 more hiking days until we reach Canada and it can’t come quick enough!
Day 160 – Monday, 17th September 2018, Wild Camp just before Milk Creek at Mile 2,524, to Wild Camp by Miners Creek at Mile 2,549, 25 miles
After trying to put ‘The day thou shalt not be mentioned’ behind us, we began ‘Day 160’ with a big climb that took us back into the realm of snow-covered ground. Even though we hadn’t left camp until around 9am when we were finally satisfied that the rain had abated (well for now here in Washington anyway), both Jarrod and Jess and Wayne and myself were slow to get started. All of us were none too keen on leaving the relative comfort of our wet tents and heading back out into the cold, especially with having to put on wet gear and soaking shoes. But through moral support, up the numerous switchbacks we went, quickly working up a sweat whilst getting back up to almost 6,000 feet.
After powering up an intense series of switchbacks taking us back to almost 6,000 feet, we discovered that yesterday’s snow had settled.
Like a scene from a Christmas card, the evergreens looked pretty covered in a dusting of snow.
Hiking below Glacier Peak in the Glacier Peak Wilderness, Mount Baker National Forest.
Stopping for a pack break when we came to the top of the ridge.
We had clearly failed in our race against the snow!
The snow gave an extra dimension to the trail and it felt great to be amidst such epic scenery again.
Stepping over a blow down. We should be experts at this by now having had to clamber over numerous fallen trees obstructing the trail yesterday.
Simply stunning! Fresh, crisp, white snow begins to accumulate in the high country.
At the higher elevations, it seemed like there had been a lot more snowfall through the night.
The snow seemed to make everything look even more magnificent.
Looking towards Vista Ridge. What a difference a day makes! The trail was splendid this morning.
We were still not making very good time walking along a trail that was quickly turning to slush.
One of the best aspects of snow on the ground was being able to see more animal prints. We think this footprint is from a bear – however we weren’t lucky enough to see one on the trail in front of us.
More snow-capped peaks of the Northern Cascades.
After a wonderful morning traversing the snow-covered ridges within the Glacier Peak Wilderness, the PCT began to descend to the Suiattle River passing through groves of majestic old growth forest. Some of the finest and biggest stretches of ancient forest in Washington can be seen here in this valley and despite our boredom with the forest towards the end of Oregon, we have to admit that our walk through the Suiattle River valley was lovely. The old-growth trees looked particularly impressive and we concluded that the 4.5 miles of rerouted trail through here (due to flood damage washing out the original bridge over the Suiattle River in 2003 and the PCT being diverted), was of great scenic value.
Just one of the many blow downs obstructing the trail that we had to navigate over the past couple of days. To hike around or to limbo under? (Both options would not be easy with a backpack!)
Walking through an impressive grove of ancient and towering Douglas-firs.
A forest floor littered with debris provides a valuable habitat for woodland wildlife.
Within the shadows of Glacier Peak stands a majestic primeval forest that left us captivated. The sheer size and stature of some of the ancient trees is incredible.
Our first views of the roaring milky-coloured glacier-silted Suiattle River.
Crossing the river via a new bridge after following the lengthier re-route of the PCT. (The 4.5 mile reroute is in place due to the original bridge across the Suiattle River being washed out and that section now being deemed both dangerous and impassable.)
After crossing the Suiattle River via the new bridge, we had another big climb to contend with. From 2,300 feet at the bed of the river, we would now be heading up to 4,500 feet to a tent site along Miners Creek at PCT Mile 2,549 that we had earmarked for this evening’s camp. After what had been quite a taxing day, Jess and Jarrod decided to set up camp at a small tent spot prior to the climb preferring to tackle it first thing the following morning when they were feeling fresh. Knowing how terrible we are at getting away from camp quickly (something Jess and Jarrod have mastered within a half hour time frame), we decided that we would rather push on tonight and get the climb out of the way. We were sure that with a much earlier start than us, they would soon catch us up in the morning. So we bid them a fond farewell and set off up the switchbacks knowing that before long we’d be relying on our head torches once more to light the way. Getting to camp a couple of hours later in the dark meant a hasty set up and a quick snack before bed in readiness for another big day tomorrow.
Trees that are hundreds of years old lay on the forest floor cloaked in vibrant green moss.
This looked so soft and inviting I almost felt compelled to lay down along the mossy bank and take a nap!
Having come to the end of our penultimate week, we now have just 6 days left on trail! We don’t want to wish it away but we have realised that we’ve hit Washington a week too late. If we’d have stuck to our original timeline plan to finish the PCT on the 14th of September, we’d have sailed through the Northern Cascades and missed all of this bad weather that is typical of Washington by mid to late September. Wayne says we shouldn’t have taken so many ‘zero’ days, but overall I don’t think we’ve had that many compared with other thru-hikers we know. Each day ‘off’ trail was well-timed and much-needed, so in reality I don’t think we’d have done that aspect of the trail any differently.
What we have done is completely underestimate Washington in terms of the terrain and how many miles we can cover per day. After the big mile days of Oregon, we had got used to being able to easily achieve 25-30 miles per day, whereas here, with such changes in elevation, we are barely managing to complete 22 miles per day. The daily distances we can achieve are also impeded by a steady decrease in daylight hours. Furthermore, night hiking is not so simple on trail that is in desperate need of some maintenance. For example, on ‘The day thou shalt not be mentioned’ we had a huge amount of tree blow downs obstructing the trail to contend with. In fact, Jess counted exactly how many obstacles blocking the trail we had to manoeuvre around and it was an unthinkable 93! No wonder we were slow at making progress. With the heavy rain making the ground both wet, muddy and extremely slippery, we would not have been able to navigate these safely in the dark. There was even one section of trail that was missing due to an enormous landslide, so we had no choice but to attempt a muddy scramble up and slide downhill between two switchbacks for us to continue. This was not how we envisaged our final few weeks on the trail to be! Here’s hoping that we make it through the final 6 days and to the Canadian border before the real winter snowstorms set in…
10 Comments
OMG, ‘The day that shalt not be mentioned’ and so many other days that tested your endurance with these weather conditions. 5 months on trail so difficult to comphrend even for the reader who formulates a mental picutre from your posts and amazing photography. So impressive. Do hope the Trail Gods came to the rescue for the final 6 days!
Thanks Helen.😁 It really was both a mentally and physically tough week! Just glad that we kept on going and made it to the finish. No spoilers about our last 6 days though…😉 The final post is coming soon!
Hope you have a wonderful Christmas ‘Down Under’ and all the best for 2019!
Really enjoying following this epic account of your epic journey, and seeing the landscapes shift and change. Especially with such amazing photos. Thanks, and can’t wait for the finale!
Thanks for your lovely comments Pam and for following along with our journey.😁 The final post is coming soon…
Mrs. Fenton,
Outstanding! This is the stuff most of the other guys skip over – it’s so miserable and painful and disheartening that nobody wants to write about it, but you did, in vivid detail. “The day that shall not be spoken about” sums it up, and I’m so sorry you had to go through that, but the amazing part is that you did. I’m glad you had one sunny day to see Glacier Peak and that area, it is breath taking. On a side note, we don’t have reindeer in Washington, but we do have “rain deer”. Have you guys left Asia yet? Merry Christmas!
Your old pal, “Bob”
Hey old pal, thanks for pointing out my typo! ‘Reindeer’ – I hadn’t even realised I had written that – obviously too much time spent on the laptop and not enough wine!😜 It even snuck through Wayne’s proofread. (A swift edit has been made!) They of course are all far too busy preparing to pull Santa’s sleigh next week!😂
I have one blog post left! Having a few days off now though to enjoy the sun here in Taiwan. We will be spending Christmas in Taipei and returning to the UK early 2019.
Wishing you a wonderful Christmas and New Year! Will it be a ‘white’ one, or is that a silly question with you living in Washington?
Best regards, your pen pal Danielle
Great photos! I live in Seattle and thruhiked the PCT in 2016, so I had many flashbacks while reading your post 🙂
Thank you for reading and taking the time to comment! Glad that you enjoyed our blog post and that it brought back memories of your own adventure 🙂
Stamina, perseverance and morale. Impressive that you were able to see it through. I’ve had a couple of days like that but never over such a distance. I love the mountains and wild camping but sitting in a tent, soaking wet in the rain is the worst. Looking forward to that final post.
Thanks Andy! Wayne has just uploaded the video of ‘Section K’, which shows some of the worst weather we had to hike through.
The finale is coming soon…