“After a day’s walk, everything has twice its usual value”.
– G.M. Trevelyan
One of the highlights of ‘Week 3’ was looking onto the magnificent north face of the Vignemale massif.
In just two weeks, we felt like we had already experienced so much on our journey across the Pyrenees and we weren’t even halfway to the Mediterranean yet! Walking from the Atlantic coast over the steep, rolling hills of the Basque Country, through deep gorges and karst terrain with soaring cliffs and impressive limestone peaks to the spectacular glaciated Alpine mountains of the High Pyrenees, we had been wowed every day. The rugged beauty of the landscape, the warmth and friendliness of the people when passing through unspoilt villages, and ultimately the remoteness and freedom of the trail minus any crowds made us all the more eager to see what ‘Week 3’ would present us with…
Day 15 – ‘Just As We Remembered It’ Friday 16th August, 2019, Hotel Maximina, Sallent de Gallego to Wild Camp by Respomuso Reservoir, GR11, 9km
Maybe a night on the town when you’ve got to hike the next day wasn’t the best idea! We weren’t feeling it when we woke up around 7am, so another couple of hours in bed was in order after a bottle of water and some paracetamol, then hopefully we’d be good to go. (Thank goodness check-out wasn’t until midday!)
After breakfast at the hotel of ‘Tostadas’ with ‘jamon y tomate’ we still had some town chores to get done, so our first stop was the Post Office. Wayne had 3 maps to send home that we had finished with, as well as a t-shirt that he was replacing with a new hiking vest. Unfortunately however, what we hadn’t realised was that the Post Office in Sallent de Gallego only opens on weekdays for 1 hour between 8:30am and 9:30am, so we had definitely missed that one! Rather than throw them away, Wayne would just have to carry the items that were now surplus to requirements until we reached Gavarnie, our next town stop en route.
The second job was then to stock up with food rations for the next 3 and a half days, as that’s how long we’d planned on it taking us to reach Gavarnie, over on the French side of the border. Resupplying today proved quite difficult however as the supermarket had limited options in terms of quick-cook hiker food. We therefore had little choice but to stick with our main staples of pasta, noodles, cheese, cured meats and plenty of eggs! Snacks had to be packets of nuts as they didn’t sell energy bars or even bars of chocolate such as Snickers or Twix bars, which provide a good energy boost. (With the increasing temperatures, this was probably a good thing as it was likely that the chocolate would have melted anyway!) We also popped into the local bakery and stocked up with 6 loaves of fresh bread – 2 white baguettes for breakfasts and 4 smaller seeded-batch baguettes for lunches. We surely couldn’t feel hungry with all that bread?!
By the time we had repacked our bags and checked out it was already midday when we left town, our bags feeling a ton heavier than when we had arrived seeing as we were now carrying half a bakery. Ahead of us was 900 metres of climb from the centre of town to the Reservoir Respomuso where we’d planned on wild camping. Thankfully we now had our trail legs to keep us going. After 2 weeks of hiking we felt in good shape and ready for the big mountain passes that still lay ahead. (Except that today, all we really felt like doing was laying down and sunbathing as we were still nursing hangovers. All self-inflicted of course!)
Leaving Sallent de Gallego at midday with full packs and sore heads. Will we ever learn?!
Following the GR11 out of town on a well-worn track that initially runs parallel to the river. With a climb of 900 metres and a distance of approximately 9km to our intended wild camp spot, we estimated it would take us around 3 hours to get there.
With the good Spanish weather on our side and feeling the positive vibes of the trail, we pushed on regardless to reach the northern end of the reservoir, Embalse de la Serra in less than an hour. As there’s road access and a restaurant located at this point, we took the opportunity to sit down in the shade and grab an ice-cream along with the many day-trippers also dining there, as it would be our last indulgence for a few days. It was by sheer coincidence that we sat at the very same table in exactly the same location outside the restaurant that we had done two years ago. We just hoped this was an omen and that we’d be as lucky with being able to pitch in the exact same wild camp spot as two years ago when we’d had an amazing position overlooking Respomuso on the southern shore of the lake.
Psyching ourselves up for the big climb ahead, we followed the course of the Rio Agua Limpias on good path, gradually heading uphill through a wooded gorge. Where the gorge narrows at the Paso de l’Onso, the path follows a ledge along the cliff face. Here, we found that the railings had broken and were hanging from the edge, with a piece of tape having since been put in place to rope off the ledge. We found it highly amusing to read the sign attached ‘Don’t rely on the handrail’. Like anyone in their right mind would!
Climbing higher through the long v-shaped valley up a series of rocky steps, which helped us gain height quicker, we could then see the dam ahead, just as we remembered it. As we didn’t need to go to the Refugio de Respomuso, we left the GR11 at this point and turned east, crossing the dam then following the trail up the rocky mountainside above the south bank of the reservoir. The surrounding granite peaks piercing a vivid sky of blue looked just as magnificent as the first time we had glimpsed this wonderful area and it felt great to be experiencing it for a second time. Even better was the fact we could see from afar that our previous wild camp spot was vacant, so we quickly hiked off the trail to bag our favourite spot. The large boulder and flat slab of granite perfect for cooking on were still there on the small outcrop above the lake shore, and it was all exactly as we remembered it, except that the weather was even better than before!
The GR11 path heads into the woods and rises up through the Aguas Limpias valley along the right-hand bank. Crossing several ravines – Bozitero, el Ministirio, Balsaroleta and el Garmo Negro, we passed a number of waterfalls that had been dry in 2017.
Continuing uphill, the path gets a little tougher, but the valley opens up offering fine views. Looking north, you can finally make out the dam wall at Respomuso.
Wayne crosses the dam. Leaving the GR11, the alternate path passes by the Virgen de las Nievas chapel (next to the dam) and continues around the reservoir along the right-hand side.
We were set up within minutes so that we could relax and enjoy this wonderful wild camp spot for a second time, which even included going down to the reservoir for a swim. (Wayne decided not to brave the water as I was literally out again within seconds because it was so cold!) Not only were the shores of the lake a great camp spot as we had running water nearby, but as this valley was less accessible there wasn’t any cattle, so we had a reprieve from the tinkling of bells throughout the night – an important factor when you’re trying to get a good night’s sleep.
We couldn’t believe that there was no one already camped at our favourite wild camp spot of 2017 along the southern shore of Embalse de Respomuso. Luck was definitely on our side today!
A wild camp spot with a view! Dominating the skyline at the northern end of the reservoir are the Pico de Campo Plano (2,721m), the Llena Cantal (2,941m) and the Pico de Piedrafita (2,952m).
Braving the icy, cold waters of the reservoir and taking a dip! I have to admit that I was out again within a matter of seconds.
And sleep came well after a hearty bowl of chicken soup with chunks of freshly baked bread to dunk in before bed time. (We can’t treat ourselves to steak and Sangria everyday as our intention was to lose weight on this trip!)
Enjoying a hearty dinner amidst scenery of surpassing loveliness. Compared with the wet weather and white-out we had experienced last week on the French side, Spain was truly being kind. What a wonderful start to Week 3!
Day 16 – ‘Not More Ham And Cheese!’ Saturday 17th August, 2019, Wild Camp by Respomuso Reservoir to Wild Camp by Lac d’Arratille, GR11, HRP, 13km
Without any cow bells echoing through the green pastures of the Valle de Tena, it had been a quiet night camped at Embalse de Respomuso, save for the babbling brook flowing nearby. Later during the evening, we had spotted a couple of other tents dotted around the northern shore of the lake pitched on some rocky outcrops, but we were still pleased at having bagged the same wild camp spot from two years ago.
Making the most of the natural outdoor furniture! Wayne cooks fried egg sandwiches for breakfast.
Today however we would be leaving the GR11 again and rejoining the HRP, taking a variant route over the Col de la Fache. This would take us back into France and the Pyrenees Parc National, which would now be completely new territory for us once more. We had no intention of re-living the long descent into Banos de Panticosa, which had seemed rather pointless the first time round on the GR11. Rejoining the HRP also meant we didn’t repeat the descent from the steep gully over the Cuello de Tebarrai or the Cuello de l’Infernio, regarded as the most difficult stage of the GR11. For us, once was enough!
The variant route we had chosen to get us back on the HRP via the Col de la Fache at 2,664 metres (although stated in our guidebook ‘…This route is not to be underestimated’) also meant we avoided having to cross the Port de Lavedan and the Col de Cambales, both serious obstacles with rough terrain and snow fields likely on both sides of the passes, even in summer. With us not carrying winter gear such as ice axes and crampons, we wouldn’t want to tackle them ill-equipped and without the proper kit – so in our minds the variant route was the best option. And as the day unfolded, it proved to be a great choice with spectacular alpine lakes and grand mountainous views in every direction!
It was a promising start to the day with both blue skies and sunshine when we broke camp and rejoined the trail.
Setting off from the southern shore of Respomuso reservoir around 9:30am, we couldn’t have asked for better as our walk north was in glorious weather. (Albeit with temperatures reaching 30°C as the day transpired, it got a little hot for climbing over 800 metres!) But we couldn’t complain as heading back across the border into France we would be sure to experience lower temperatures and even rain in the next few days.
Hiking on to rejoin the HRP…
Injecting the mountainsides with colour, swathes of wildflowers line the trail.
Wayne stops to photograph the flora of the Pyrenees.
Panorama looking back to the Embalse de Campo Plano.
Reaching Embalse de Campo Plano and an unfinished dam, it was from there that we began to climb east, keeping the stream coming from the Lacs de la Fache on our left. Gone were the red and white paint flashes signalling our way as we were no longer on the GR11. Instead we had to rely on piles of cairns marking the path at regular intervals, but contrary to what we had first thought, the path was well-trodden and easy to see. By the amount of people we had passed walking in both directions, this choice of route was clearly much more popular than what we had anticipated. It took us approximately 2 and a half hours to reach the pass, the final part of the climb weaving around a rocky slope and up a boulder field to the right of the lakes – but again the path was well-trodden and easy to navigate.
Following the narrow, rocky trail around the Lacs de la Fache as we steadily made our way uphill towards the pass.
The higher we got, the more impressive the view of magnificent mountains and turquoise tarns.
Looking back as we made our way up the final switchbacks to the Col de la Fache at 2,664 metres.
Reaching the top just before midday, it felt too early to have lunch, especially as we’d had fried egg sandwiches for breakfast with extra thick doorstep bread that we’d carried from Sallent de Gallego yesterday. So we shared a packet of nuts, before then beginning the long descent to Refuge Wallon situated at 1,865 metres in the the Valley de Marcadau, above Cauterets and the Pont d’Espagne. From reaching the Col de la Fache at 2,664 metres, we would now be losing over 800 metres of height gain and that wasn’t all for today!
Enjoying far-reaching views into the next valley from the Col de la Fache at 2,664 metres. As it was so windy at the very top of the pass, we had taken shelter amongst a rocky outcrop over the other side where the trail weaves downhill into the striking Marcadau Valley.
After some initial zigzags down the mountainside from the pass, which were a little nerve-wracking at times on loose scree, we then enjoyed a lovely walk through the Vallee du Marcadau. Here, the scenery suddenly seemed distinctly grander and more dramatic and with a sea of giant peaks and passes in every direction, we felt like we had now reached the ‘High Pyrenees’ proper. A wild area of bare rock and interesting geological formations, this long valley has its own distinctive charm presenting a world of grey granite and silent tarns, coupled with icy-cold cascades, patches of meadow and stunted pines, surrounded by the broken border-ridge of the high Pyrenean range, with Refuge Wallon at its heart.
Making a steady descent from the Col de la Fache into the Vallee du Marcadau, an exceptionally beautiful area offering access to many popular day walks and prominent peaks on both the French and Spanish sides of the border.
Taking in the tremendous views as we walked along, carefully crossing streams and stepping over rocks and roots intruding on the trail, we enjoyed the wonderful aroma of pine needles, and as always, they triggered memories of our time in the Sierra. We even heard the familiar squeak of a marmot and saw one out in the open. It wasn’t as camera shy as the other French marmots we’d already seen that had instantly fled for the cover of a rock, but neither was it as bold as the American marmots that blatantly try to steal things from your camp!
A well-fed looking marmot that we managed to capture on camera!
We could see the Refuge Wallon way off in the distance at the head of the valley, and it looked a good walk to reach it where we could stride out and make excellent time as the trail snaked it’s way across a grassy plateau – the Pla de Loubosso, following the Rousseau du Port du Marcadau. It didn’t seem long before we reached the Pla de la Gole and we were ready to take off our shoes and dip our feet in the water to cool off. But not before treating ourselves to cold cans of Orangina from the refuge at a hefty €3.50 each. (In comparison, 1 litre of wine was only 8 Euros, so in hindsight we’d have been better off camping there for the night and drinking!)
Looking back to the Col de la Fache from where we had descended into the valley. Signage was excellent once again informing us that Refuge Wallon was approximately a 15 minute walk from this point.
Located at the crossroads of four valleys, Refuge Wallon is an ideal starting point for many hikes as well as an excellent rest stop where it is possible to purchase cold drinks and hot food! From climbing border-ridge peaks such as the Grande Fache, to exploring side valleys and cols, to circuiting the lakes at the heart of the great bowl – this area is regarded as a walker’s paradise.
Crossing the footbridge over the Gave de Batans, we then stopped for lunch a little way from the refuge. Not only could we cool off in the fast flowing water but we also had excellent views of the high peaks looking back to the west. It is possible to bivouac (wild camp) in a designated area close to refuge, but we had already decided to push on as it was so busy. There were lots of people hiking to and from the refuge, and several others lazing around the river in the sunshine. Having experienced several wild camps with large groups on the PCT, it made us realise how much we appreciate our own space and privacy, so we had planned to push on another hour and a half in order to reach Lac d’Arratille. With it being a Saturday, we knew in all likelihood that there would be some tents already pitched at the lake, but to get there required a little more effort, so we were hoping that there wouldn’t be too many.
With several large boulders providing access to the stream, this was a perfect place to stop for lunch and cool off in the Gave de Batans.
Nicely refreshed, we set off mid-afternoon for the final push of the day. Heading uphill on a grassy slope, weaving between pine trees and crossing large slabs of granite, we seemed to ascend quickly, which was good as it was feeling even hotter. Again following a path marked with cairns we soon crossed the Gave d’Arratille, where we took the opportunity to drink some ice-cold water straight from the stream, before finally coming upon the Lac d’Arratille located in a hanging valley at 2,247 metres. There were already a few people checking out places to camp alongside the lake, but we managed to find a nice spot close to the southern shore.
Making the most of the sunshine, we quickly pitched the tent and then chilled out reading our Kindles whilst catching a few rays. With the extra effort of hiking up to the lake, we’d already saved ourselves an hour and a half of walking tomorrow, which was a huge positive as it also meant that we had just 300 metres of climb left to reach the Col d’Arratille the following morning.
The final climb of the day! Making our way up to the Lac d’Arratille at 2,247 metres where we intended on wild camping that evening.
Dinner tonight was ‘Ham and Cheese Tortellini Pasta’ with a ‘Tomato and Basil’ cupa soup mixed in as a sauce. After ‘Cheese and Salami’ sandwiches at lunch time, we would be more than ready for a change of food rations when it was time to resupply in the French town of Gavarnie on Monday!
Setting up camp beside the Lac d’Arratille in a lovely scenic spot.
Early evening lake reflections of the surrounding mountains.
Day 17 – ‘This Is What We Came Here For!’ Sunday 18th August, 2019, Wild Camp by Lac d’Arratille to Wild Camp at Barrage d’Ossoue, HRP, GR10, 14km
Wow, wow, wow! What an awesome day to be on the trail. With incredible views in every direction, today really showcased the spectacular peaks of the High Pyrenees. Setting off from Lac d’Arratille just before 10am with a belly full of fuel from a plate of scrambled eggs and more bread, we began scrambling over boulders following a series of cairns uphill towards the Col d’Arratille right on the French-Spanish border. As we’d already done most of the climb yesterday, we had just 300 or so metres left to go, passing the Lac du Col d’Arratille with its turquoise waters, as we wound steadily up a rocky path towards the pass.
Leaving our lakeside camp early morning for the final push up to the Col d’Arratille, located right on the French-Spanish border.
Following ‘white-red-white’ flashes across a rocky slope towards the pass.
Passing another beautiful turquoise tarn as we neared the top of the Col d’Arratille. We felt incredibly lucky with the weather as it afforded us more wonderful views!
Rejoining the trail a short time later, we were then on the Spanish side walking in the upper section of the Valle de Ara, crossing the rocky southern slopes of Pic Alphonse Meillon. Having hiked through the stunning Ara Valley on our previous visit to the Pyrenees, we were extremely tempted to follow the path down to the valley bottom and enjoy its beauty for a second time. The fact that this valley would also lead us to Buchareillo and a fine campsite with a restaurant and bar was also very enticing. We resisted however as today’s new route following the HRP and some of the GR10 would showcase some of the Pyrenees’ most prominent peaks including Vignemale, which at 3,298 metres is the highest of the French Pyrenean summits. We had seen it before on the GR11, but not from the perspective of its very famous north face.
We then seemed to reach the top of the next pass – the Col des Mulets (2,591m) in no time, so we stopped for a pack break to take in the wonderful views looking back to where we had just hiked over from the Col d’Arratille. Already, there were several other walkers resting at the top when we arrived, again signalling that this is a popular route for many hikers, not just those tackling the HRP.
Descending from the Col d’Arratille, the notch between the two peaks in the background, we had crossed the rocky southern slopes of Pic Alphonse Meillon on a long, narrow path winding its way across the mountainside to the Col des Mulets.
Starting our long descent from the Col des Mulets into the Vallee de Gaube, which was initially quite steep and unsettling on the loose rock.
Indeed, we were glad to have continued on our planned route as descending from the Col des Mulets at 2,591 metres, we were then treated to more blue skies, bright sunshine and impressive views of the Vallee de Gaube. Now following ‘white, red, white’ paint flashes again, we began descending steeply on the east side of the pass, from where we first glimpsed Vignemale’s north face. Covered in thick grey-blue glaciers with melting ice trickling down its enormous granite walls in deep rivets, we could see instantly why the magnificent massif of the Vignemale has long been a source of inspiration for mountaineers.
The views looking onto the Vallee de Gaube were simply breathtaking, especially when we were able to glimpse the north face of Vignemale for the first time.
Looking across to the Vignemale massif, which consists of several distinct summits, the predominant one being ‘Grand Vignemale’ or ‘Pique-Longue’ (in French).
Stopping for a drink break mid-way to soak in the impressive view and to give our feet a rest from the rocky trail.
Continuing downhill from the Col des Mulets, with the trail getting a little better underfoot.
Zigzagging downhill on more stones following the marked path, we quickly came to a signposted ‘bivouac’ area in a grassy bowl next to a fast flowing stream created from all the melt-water rushing off Vignemale. Looking up at the majestic peak with the sun flaring above, we considered camping here just to enjoy the view for a whole night. We were almost persuaded when the idea of purchasing a litre of ‘vin rouge‘ from the Oulettes de Gaube Refuge also came to mind, but seeing as it was only 1pm, we thought it was too early to hang up our packs for the day. Instead, we sat at one of the picnic tables outside the refuge, which is situated on a bluff at 2,151 metres, and both indulged in cans of Orangina and Twix chocolate bars, whilst enjoying the perfect view.
With the clouds rolling in and out and the north face being intermittently lit up by the sun, it made for a captivating scene so Wayne took the opportunity to capture a time lapse sequence of Vignemale in all her glory. As quoted in our guidebook “…With a view that has no equal in the Pyrenees…” – today we actually thought this could be true!
Looking directly onto the north face of the Vignemale massif whilst crossing the Gave de Gaube, which has carved out the valley.
The bivouac area with fantastic views directly onto the Vignemale massif, which include from left to right ‘Petit Vignemale’, ‘Pointe de Chausenque’, ‘Piton Carré’ and the ‘Grand Vignemale’ or ‘Pique-Longue’ (in French).
Crossing the valley and heading towards the Oulettes de Gaube Refuge where we intended on having a well-deserved lunch break.
Looking further down the Gaube valley from the back of the refuge.
Leaving our wonderful spot at the refuge after about an hour, we then continued heading towards the next refuge – the Refuge de Bayssellance, following the red and white flashes of the GR10, now conveniently marked all the way to the French town of Gavarnie. But first we had another climb leaving the Refuge des Oulette’s de Gaube of around 600 metres to reach the Hourquette d’Ossoue pass.
Leaving the Refuge des Oulette’s de Gaube and heading uphill towards the Hourquette d’Ossoue. At 2,734 metres, it is the mountain pass between the Petit Vignemale (3,032m) and the Pic de la Sède (2,976m).
At 3,298 metres, the ‘Grand Vignemale’ is the highest point in the French Pyrenees. The summit is accessed by crossing the ‘Glacier d’Ossoue’, the second largest glacier in the Pyrenees behind that of Aneto on the Spanish side.
Looking back to the Col des Mulets across the valley where our route zigzags down the mountainside.
Continuing uphill to the Hourquette d’Ossoue with the Vignemale massif directly ahead.
Looking back to the Refuge des Oulette’s de Gaube nestled in the valley below, our path of switchbacks up the mountainside clearly visible.
On reaching the top, we came across four hikers who were leaving their packs in preparation for climbing the Petit Vignemale (3,032m), one of the summits of the Vignemale massif. Accessible from either the Gaube Valley or the Vallée d’Ossoue, the first recorded ascent of the Petit Vignemale was made in August 1798 by La Baumelle. Looking ahead and watching the four hikers set off, the route up didn’t look too scary from below. But it would have taken us at least an hour to reach the summit, and then a similar time to come back down, so we decided it could wait for another trip in the future – quite possibly when we return with a campervan to do a road trip across the Pyrenees!
Prayer flags on the Hourquette d’Ossoue from where it is possible to begin an ascent of the Petit Vignemale.
From our position on Hourquette d’Ossoue, we could see the next refuge in the distance situated on a rocky outcrop with a clear path winding down the mountainside towards it. At 2,651 metres, the Refuge de Bayssellance is famed for being the highest manned mountain hut in the Pyrenees. Heading over the pass, it was incredibly windy and looking towards the bivouac areas we could see that there were several wind breaks made with piles of rocks, so we assumed that strong winds always funnelled through this side of the valley. Had it not been for the wind, our intention was to camp beside this refuge. However as the sign stated that bivouacking was only possible between the hours of 19:00 and 09:00, we didn’t want to sit around for 3 hours waiting to put up our tent, and definitely not with the gusting winds that were almost knocking us sideways.
Descending from the Hourquette d’Ossoue towards the Refuge de Bayssellance and the Ossoue Valley.
The route offered extensive views across the Ossoue Valley towards the Cirque de Gavarnie.
Looking towards the Bayssellance Refuge located on a bluff at 2,654 metres.
With an unbeatable location close to the Vignemale massif and with breathtaking views of the Gavarnie cirque, the Bayssellance Refuge is the highest in the Pyrenees. Built in 1899, and renovated in 2003, it has retained its original copper roof and vault structure.
As it was only 4pm when we arrived at the refuge, we made the impromptu decision to hike on. It would mean another two hours of walking including a long descent of 800 metres or so to reach the plateau of the Barrage d’Ossoue, but at 1,843 metres, this was the next suitable place to camp. Despite the added kilometres, it would still mean reaching camp by 6pm and having an hour to kill before we could ‘officially’ put up our tent at 7pm, so all in all, it seemed a good plan if we were to get out of the incessant wind.
After filling up our water bottles from the natural spring outside the refuge, which is fed by the waters running out of Ossoue ravine, the descent began well on a worn path that was clearly marked, taking us past the Grottoes de Bellevue (2,420m). This is the first group of a number of caves that Henry Russell, an eccentric Pyrenean explorer, ordered to be dug in the Vignemale massif. Then after following zigzags down a grassy bank on which we spied several spots for camping because of the ad-hoc windbreaks that had been fashioned from rocks, we had to cross a series of streams coming from the Glacier d’Ossoue. These were now extremely fast-flowing because of the rapid ice melt from throughout the day and presented us with a dilemma we hadn’t considered when we had pushed on from the refuge. A rock hop was feasible, but as the rocks looked slippery and rather precarious, we resigned ourselves to getting wet feet. And true to form, even with some very tentative and careful manoeuvring across the rocks, there was no avoiding wet feet when one of mine slipped into the gushing water! At least it was sunny, so hopefully my shoes would dry out by the time we reached camp.
Pointing towards the Cirque de Gavarnie where we were headed the following day.
The Grottoes de Bellevue or Russell Caves are seven artificial caves, dug by Count Henry Russell between 1881 and 1893 on the Vignemale massif, to serve as shelter and vacation where in total, he spent one hundred and forty-seven nights.
Zigzagging across the mountainside where we had to tackle some unexpected fast-flowing stream crossings due to the rushing melt-waters coming from the Ossoue glacier.
Melt-water from the Ossoue glacier rushes down the wall of the mountain. It was time to psyche ourselves up for getting wet feet!
But that wasn’t the worst of it. Looking down to the Barrage d’Ossoue, it had seemed we had a clear path taking us straight to the reservoir, but in fact a ravine was obstructing any direct route, so we found ourselves having to contour around the mountainsides for quite a distance before we could descend any further into the valley. From afar, the path looked narrow and thin across a giant wall of granite. I said to Wayne rather blasé, “I bet that will be worse than what it actually looks!” When I saw his alarmed face, I quickly realised that what I meant to have said was “I bet it looks much worse than what it really is up close!” It was just a slip of the tongue, but as he hates exposed edges anyway, it didn’t put him at ease. The nearer we got, we could see that in fact my first mis-statement had been correct. It wasn’t a proper path around the mountainside at all but a natural etch in the rock that looked like it had been dug out with pickaxes. Hence, we had to tread carefully with our large packs, using one hand to hold onto the wall of the mountain whilst also trying to avoid the edge and the drop off! On our left-hand side was the Gave d’Ossoue, but our eyes were now firmly fixed on our feet as we steadily made our way along, then down the steep, rocky slope.
Looking towards the small Barrage d’Ossoue Reservoir (1,840m) at the head of the valley where we had planned on wild camping.
As we got closer, the path looked less straight-forward, taking us high up around the Ossoue ravine avoiding a deep gorge. It was quite an intense experience as the trail had been cut into the rock face and was both narrow and exposed.
Finally, we reached a large plateau where we could see an incredible view of some cascades rushing over the cliff edge and down into the Ossoue River. Crossing it this time by footbridge, we then had a short walk to the dam across the Barrage d’Ossoue. Just as anticipated, we arrived around 6pm, so we picked a raised spot overlooking the reservoir as our intended place to pitch the tent.
Just like us, there were several other hikers sat around in different sheltered spots in anticipation of putting up their tent as soon as 7pm arrived. However, in the end we decided that we couldn’t quite wait that long as the sun was dipping behind the mountains and we wanted to pitch the tent and take refuge inside before it got too cold. We didn’t think they’d be any Parc National rangers coming to check anyway, especially as a family were about to pitch right by the edge of the reservoir with all their car camping gear, so feeling a little rebellious we set up early.
Passing a fast-flowing waterfall as we descended from the ravine.
With the Gave d’Ossoue flowing on the left-hand side carving out the valley, we were extremely glad to be back on solid ground and good trail again after a few hair-raising moments.
Crossing the river by footbridge, before continuing to the Barrage d’Ossoue Reservoir.
Enjoying the beautiful, lush, green valley now that we had descended below 2,000 metres.
Setting up camp a little early out of the designated bivouac hours as the sun was already going off the valley.
We were tired after the day’s exertions, so dinner was then a hasty meal of soup and bread followed by ‘Chicken and Soy sauce’ flavoured noodles with a fried egg on top. After rinsing the pots, ‘Hiker Midnight’ then came sooner than usual as even though we hadn’t walked a great number of kilometres in terms of distance, we’d had a tough day of numerous ascents and descents resulting in tired legs and a strong desire to sleep!
Day 18 – ‘In Anticipation Of The Cirque’ Monday 19th August, 2019, Wild Camp at Barrage d’Ossoue to Camping La Bergerie, Gavarnie, GR10, 12km
After such a pleasant evening, it was quite a surprise to wake up to see the valley shrouded in mist. It had rained lightly throughout the night and now we had almost zero visibility. Hence, we were so pleased to have pushed on yesterday in such glorious weather and to have enjoyed the fine views throughout our descent to the Barrage d’Ossoue. Had it been this morning, some of the trail would have been a bit unsettling in wet conditions and we wouldn’t have enjoyed not being able to see what we were walking into, especially manoeuvring around the steep, rocky ravine leading to the plateau.
So with the weather being poor and the tent being wet, we didn’t rush to vacate the bivouac area despite the time regulations being 19:00 until 09:00. We doubted anyone would even see us in the mist – if at all anyone came looking. We used up the last of our food rations as we knew it would only be a 3 hour walk to the town of Gavarnie, with Wayne cooking chorizo and chopped tomato omelettes, which we ate with the last of our now 3-day old bread. (We knew about it as well as it took some chewing. It was a wonder that it didn’t break one of our teeth!) A while later, finally climbing out of the comfort of the tent, we were pleased to see that the cloud layer had lifted and patches of blue were revealing themselves up above. The day might turn out better than we expected after all…
Waking up to a completely different scene this morning as mist descends over the Barrage d’Ossoue.
Early morning mist makes for atmospheric mountain reflections on the reservoir.
More moody mountain reflections through the mist.
Looking back down the valley, we were glad to have made the descent from the Bayssellance Refuge yesterday as the route downhill and the higher peaks were now covered in mist.
An hour or so later and the mist had lifted somewhat. It looked a much more promising day by the time we were ready to leave camp.
Wiping away the excess water from the tent with my trusty flannel, it seemed to dry out in no time as we packed our bags and had a second cup of tea. Setting off just before 10am, it looked much more promising and we hoped that we’d actually be able to see the monumental Cirque de Gavarnie after all – the gigantic natural amphitheatre that surrounds the small settlement. With vertical walls up to 1,500 metres high from valley floor to top, and the summits of the cirque all exceeding 3,000 metres in altitude, the village of Gavarnie (really one long street full of souvenir shops, bars and restaurants) receives enormous numbers of tourists, as well as day-walkers and trekkers because of this main natural attraction. With rain forecast for later as well as the following day however, we hoped we wouldn’t miss out on seeing this unique landscape.
Leaving camp we could see a cloud inversion further down the valley.
We debated whether taking the road to Gavarnie from the reservoir as opposed to following the trail around several ravines would actually be quicker – but decided to stick with the walker’s route as tarmac is more wearing on the feet.
After 20 minutes or so, we passed the Cabane de Lourdes where several hikers were sat outside drying out their tents and gear. Luckily by the time we had set off, ours was dry – there is an advantage of being the last to leave camp sometimes! Even though the mist kept blowing in and out, the trail was easy to follow, especially now with following the GR10 markers again. The mist also made for some atmospheric shots of the peaks lining the Barrage d’Ossoue as we looked back down the valley towards the dam and where we had camped.
The mist made for some moody shots looking back down the Barrage d’Ossoue.
With the mist blowing in and out and rain forecast for later, we were dubious as to whether we would get to see the Cirque de Gavarnie when we got to the village.
With our heads down we then just pushed on, dodging cow pats and avoiding the nonchalant cows blocking the trail who were unperplexed by our presence. If they’d have been English cows, we’d have been giving them a very wide berth! Next we passed a basic shelter – the Cabane de Sausse-Dessus (1,902m), before following a fairly level track that contoured around the sides of the valley, still keeping us high above the road. Finally descending on a set of switchbacks, we reached a tarmac road that led us to the Refuge des Granges de Holle. The refuge was open and we were very tempted to call in for a hot drink as the temperature outside was much cooler than the previous few days where at times it had topped 30°C. It was the biting wind today however that made the ‘real-feel’ temperature much worse, but as we were just 3km from town we decided to keep going.
Following the GR10 trail to Gavarnie where the Pyrenean cows were not perplexed by our presence in the slightest.
Crossing the Ruisseau de Sausse by footbridge as we pushed on to Gavarnie.
Passing the Cabane de Sausse-Dessus, a basic shelter on the GR10 at 1,902 metres.
From the cabin, a HRP variant route heads south towards the Brèche de Roland on the French-Spanish border, whereas the GR10 weaves its way east towards Gavarnie for resupply.
Taking in the incredible views across the Ossoue Valley once more.
Enjoying the superb track underfoot, which meant we could stride out and make good time to town.
Unfortunately, the mist had come in again so we were certain that today the cirque would be obscured. Because of the poor weather forecast over the next couple of days, we had already decided that we would stay for two nights at the campsite in Gavarnie and enjoy a ‘zero’ the following day. As we neared the village, thankfully the cloud layer seemed to have lifted somewhat and the high-level track we were walking on afforded us views down to the central hub. From what we could see, the outdoor seating areas of the cafés and bars looked empty and it seemed rather like a ghost town compared to the bustling village of tourists we’d expected. It could have just been siesta time, or more so the fact that many places close on Mondays or have limited opening hours. With us being so used to the 24/7 culture of England, it is something when on the continent that we always seem to forget!
Reaching the edge of the French village. Not just a stop-off for HRP and GR10 walkers, but also a Camino stage en route to Santiago de Compostela, Gavarnie is listed as a UNESCO world heritage site for its tiny 12th century Notre Dame du Bon Port parish church and for the extraordinary cirque that surrounds the village described as ‘a Colosseum of nature’.
Venturing down to the centre of the village, we then followed the Gave de Gavarnie river to the Camping La Bergerie where we were told that we couldn’t check in until 2pm. As we had half an hour to wait, we decided to sit inside the on-site bar to warm up and enjoy a well-deserved beer for our efforts over the last few days. When we could finally pitch the tent and get organised, the showers weren’t then open until 3pm, so we had some more waiting to do before we could make the most of a ‘Town Day’! (The French seem to be very strict with their timings!)
After finally pitching our tent at the ‘Camping La Bergerie’, we soon had some very close neighbours. It was to our annoyance as they somewhat obscured our direct view of the cirque.
By the time we had showered and walked back into town then perused the local grocery store to see what we could resupply with the following day, it was too late for food as the only restaurants open stopped serving at 3pm. The evening dinner service then started from 7pm until 9:30pm so we had no choice but to partake in a few alcoholic beverages at a couple of bars on the main street until it had reached the appropriate time. (We do really take for granted that you can order food virtually all day almost anywhere in the UK! Especially if you like to dine in a Wetherspoons and do ‘cheap and cheerful’ like we do!)
Building up an appetite, we weren’t spoilt for choice on restaurants as there were only a couple open, but we were very impressed with our meals from the ‘Brasserie Les Glaciers’. I had a set meal with ‘Goats Cheese and Charcutterie Salad’ for starters, followed by ‘Confit of Duck with House Fries’ and ‘Homemade Apple Pie and Cream’ for dessert. The duck leg roasted in its own fat tasted divine! We eat so well on the trail now compared with the PCT, but it’s always good to taste some local delicacies and we do miss the odd portion of chips (or fries to the non-English!). Wayne had a very nice ‘Burger with medium-rare Beef’ complete with the trimmings and ‘House Fries’ too and his dessert was a simple bowl of ‘Raspberries with Sour Cream’. With the addition of two carafes of red wine, it was well worth the 50 Euro bill! Well we had to splurge a little in Gavarnie!
My delicious ‘Confit of Duck with House Fries’ from the Brasserie Les Glaciers in Gavarnie.
By 10pm everywhere was then closing up, much like in Sallent de Gallego, so we retired to the tent a little inebriated and very pleased we weren’t hiking tomorrow! With the rain relentlessly lashing down from around 11pm, it had been a wise decision after all to book two nights at the campsite…
Day 19 – ‘And All Was Revealed’ Tuesday 20th August, 2019, Zero Day in Gavarnie, Camping La Bergerie
The weather forecast had for once been accurate – indeed it hadn’t stopped raining for 12 hours solid! I had laid awake in the tent last night from 1am for over an hour hoping for a brief interlude or at least a chance of the showers slowing down enough to give me the opportunity to nip out to the toilet, but to no avail. So when Wayne woke up needing to go too, we both put on our waterproof coats and hot-footed it down the terraces to the camp toilets trying to avoid getting a soaking. At least with our new tent, we have the large vestibule in which we can hang up our things to dry, which had already proved invaluable after our rainy stay in Lescun. It felt like we were seeing a pattern here in that rain always seems to happen on the French side of the border when we plan a zero day at a proper campsite.
Thank goodness we had already bought some food supplies from the grocery store when we arrived yesterday. Needless to say, with the prospect of most of the day being spent hunkering down in the tent, we had treated ourselves to pain au chocolate for breakfast along with a specialty box of biscuits to enjoy with a proper cup of black English tea now that I’d been able to buy some Tetley teabags!
Idling away the time and enjoying some treats in the tent whilst rain spoils play!
It was just before midday, after too much overindulgence and now a little boredom from being cooped up inside for so long, that the continuous pitter patter we’d heard on the tent suddenly came to a stop. Then as if someone had switched on a light right above us, everything became brighter, the sun having finally burned through all of the low lying cloud. As we unzipped our tent doors it was like waking up in a different world. After the whiteout of yesterday, we now had blue skies overhead, but more importantly right before us was the infamous cirque. And it was just as spectacular as we had read about. Literally surrounded by a series of 3,000+ metres peaks, the panoramic view of the high limestone walls covered in countless waterfalls was really stunning! After so much rain, the Grande Cascade, a striking 423-metre high waterfall – one of the highest in Europe – was also flowing tremendously.
Wiping excess water from the tent to help it dry out quicker, we now had tremendous views from the campsite looking onto the cirque. (It also helped that our neighbours had vacated their spot during the deluge!)
So we got out our camp chairs and sat facing the best view afforded from a private campsite (excluding wild camps) that we’d ever experienced. We tried thinking of one better – campsites in the Lake District, campsites in the National Parks of North America that we’d stayed at – but none of them afforded us such a spectacle as this right from the door of our tent. (Thankfully our tent neighbours whom we had grumbled about yesterday for pitching too close and who would right now be blocking this panoramic view of awesomeness, had hastily left early morning in the midst of the downpour.)
As the campsite is terraced, there is ample opportunity for everyone to get a really good pitch with a great open view directly looking upon the cirque if they space themselves accordingly.
With the sun quickly drying out the tent and the rest of the day looking promising, we decided to get ready and go out for lunch. As we had already perused the bars and restaurants on offer from one end of the pedestrian street to the other yesterday, we had decided to try the pizza restaurant opposite where we had eaten last night (if it was in fact open today). ‘Le Mourgat’ was indeed open and busy with diners now sitting outside in the sunshine, so we took a table. Instead of pizzas however, we both decided on the daily special of ‘Poulet Roti avec Frites Maison’ – basically rotisserie chicken with house fries. (It was akin to being in South America all over again!) This plate however was even larger as it also came with bread, cheese and a little salad. Unsurprisingly, the French do love their cheese and bread! It tasted fantastic, so we were pleased with our last minute choice.
The main street through Gavarnie where the supermarket, gear shops and bar-restaurants are located in the middle of the cirque.
Stocking up on town calories. Enjoying a hearty lunch of rotisserie chicken with house fries!
We then walked back along the river to a little café-bar we had tried yesterday, where we sat outside with a couple of beers so that Wayne could get a time lapse looking onto the cirque. In the foreground he had people walking past and children enjoying their time on donkeys taking them to the end of the road for a better view. It had now really hotted up and the place was getting busier by the minute.
An hour or so later and armed with a bottle of wine, we headed back to the tent as we had laundry to do before nightfall. The campsite had both a washer and dryer, which was really convenient so everything could get a really good clean. It’s always good when we put on fresh gear and we don’t smell like ‘hiker trash’ for a day or two!
Having eaten a big lunch we enjoyed a light picnic supper at camp later that evening. Wayne warmed through a round of Camembert cheese in the cook pot which we ate with crusty bread and a beetroot salad. Again, as far as camp food goes, it was really delicious and involved minimum washing up!
Today had turned out much better than we had anticipated – the fact that we even got to see the cirque at all after such dreadful weather the previous day was incredible. With the weather forecast picking up now for the next week ahead, we had even higher hopes for tomorrow’s views when we would be climbing uphill and hiking through the cirque itself. We couldn’t wait…
Day 20 – ‘Into The Cirque’ Wednesday 21st August, 2019, Camping La Bergerie, Gavarnie to Le Cairn Camping, Next to Auberge de la Munia, Heas, HRP, 18km
We had woken up to a fairly dry tent and the weather in France today was perfect for walking, so all was good in the world again. We didn’t have to check out of the campsite until 11am, so we showered, had fried eggs and bread for breakfast, then nipped back into the village to the grocery store for some last minute supplies. We had left any purchases of refrigerated food until this morning so that they would be fresher and hopefully last a little longer on the trail.
With everything sorted and us ready to leave at exactly 11am, we set off along the main pedestrianised road in Gavarnie with what seemed like half of the French nation on summer vacation, towards the renowned ‘cirque’. It’s possible for tourists to hire horses or donkeys to take them on a grand circular tour of the village over a couple of hours, so we were also sharing the road with a mule train making its way to see the famous gap in the Cirque de Gavarnie, known as the Breche de Roland. At 2,807 metres, The Breche or ‘Roland’s Breach’ is a huge gap in the cliff-line of such peculiarity, mainly because of its size and sheer-sided symmetry, that it resembles a broken tooth in a perfect face. The natural gap, 40 metres across and 100 metres high, is situated in the Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park on the French-Spanish border, close to the steep cliffs of the Cirque de Gavarnie. According to one legend, the gap was cut by Count Roland with his sword ‘Durendal’ in an attempt to destroy the sword after being defeated during the Battle of Roncesvalles in 778. Another story has it that he cut the gap in order to see France one last time before he died.
As soon as we turned off the road on the left-hand side following the signposted path leading us towards the Refuge des Espuguettes however, the crowds diminished and we were on our own again. We had obviously left the ‘tourist path’ and climbing through the Arribama Forest steadily zigzagging uphill to the border of the Parc National, we understood why this was the less popular route as we would be ascending over 600 metres in order to reach the refuge, and that wasn’t even the high point of our day.
Leaving the centre of Gavarnie in much better weather than when we had arrived. We were excited to be getting closer to the cirque!
After about half an hour or so, we did pass a French family who were hiking for the first time and wanted to see the Cirque de Gavarnie in all its glory from a better vantage point. They were impressed with our efforts and said we must be very ‘sportif’ (athletic) as we went powering up the trail, eager to see the view for ourselves. Stopping for photographs at the junction with the National Parc, we could then see our path zigzagging up the mountainside on what looked like steady switchbacks beyond the refuge leading up to the Hourquette d’Alans. Reaching 2,430 metres, traversing the pass would then take us into the Vallee d’Estaube.
Reaching the Refuge des Espuguettes after about an hour, we found several other walkers sat on a grassy knoll enjoying the tremendous view, so we also decided to sit and take it all in whilst having a picnic lunch with sandwiches and pastries that we had bought from the local deli that morning. As we still had another 400 metres of climb to go to reach the pass, we wanted to make sure we had enough energy for the final uphill effort!
Taking in the tremendous view as we made our way uphill to the Refuge des Espuguettes. The natural gap known as the Breche de Roland can be seen in the cliff-line in the distance.
Looking up to the Hourquette d’Alans, a pass at 2,430 metres on the left of the picture, which we would cross next to take us into the Vallee d’Estaube.
They may look beautiful, but these ‘Blue Monkshood’ flowers are considered the most poisonous plant in the Pyrenees. Nicknamed ‘herbal arsenic’, the poison can even penetrate unbroken skin if handled!
Reaching the Refuge des Espuguettes where the views in every direction were simply spectacular! It made every bit of the climb worth it.
Looking southeast from the refuge, Vignemale dominates the skyline with the Glacier d’Ossoue clearly visible.
Framed by a succession of giants, we had fine views of Mont Perdu (3,352m), Marboré Peak (3,284m), Taillon (3,144m) and the highly renowned Brèche de Roland, the place of so many legends.
Less than an hour later, we had made it to the pass – the climb overall being steady on a well-worn path that was easy to navigate as it currently had red and orange flags positioned every few metres in readiness for a mountain race due to take place over the weekend. Reaching the top of the Hourquette d’Alans, we found it was busy with both French and Spanish day walkers, so the route was again more popular than what we had assumed. We took off our packs once more and sat a while to take in the spectacular views where we literally turned our heads from one cirque to another. In one direction we looked upon the grandiose Cirque de Gavarnie, then on the other side of the pass we were met with an equally splendid view looking onto the Cirque d’Estaube. We took some photographs with each cirque in view, then decided to move on as there was limited space on top of the pass and new people were arriving all the time.
Looking onto the grand Cirque d’Estaube from the Hourquette d’Alans.
Feeling small in the grand scheme of things – Taking a little scramble from the pass to get a rock shot to show the scale of these magnificent mountains!
Starting on the descent from the pass which was relatively straightforward on a well-worn track.
Descending in short zigzags on good track taking us quickly down the mountainside, we soon found ourselves in the centre of the Cirque d’Estaube. After the heavy rain yesterday morning, we felt really lucky to have such fine weather and to be able to see any views at all. Moving quickly across the long grassy paths that continued downhill, we made good time and were soon down to the floor of the Vallee d’Estaube.
Heading down the valley, which is carved out by the Gave d’Estaube, a left tributary of the Gave de Heas that feeds the reservoir created from the Gloriettes dam.
Taking a look back to the Cirque d’Estaube. The verdant green slopes of this valley are used as summer pasture for cattle and sheep herds.
Another glorious day on trail walking through the Vallee d’Estaube.
Reaching the valley floor, we were now in ‘day walker’ territory proper, so found ourselves having to keep overtaking large groups and families slowing up the trail. We followed the river – the Gave d’Estaube, flowing right through the valley all the way to the Lac des Gloriettes, a dammed reservoir situated at 1,668 metres. Fortunately it had been cloudy so we hadn’t been overheating too much, but we both could have done with a refreshing cold drink and an ice-cream after almost 6 hours of walking, especially when the final 3 kilometres was along the road. Apart from the fast pace we can maintain during a road walk, there is nothing else good about it. It’s wearing on the feet and rather monotonous, not to mention quite scary because of how careless foreign drivers seem to be especially as we had to descend via two tight hairpin turns that were only wide enough for single lane traffic!
Walking beside the Gave d’Estaube, that has carved out this magnificent valley.
Looking onto the turquiose waters of Lac des Gloriettes, a reservoir at the head of the valley created by the Gloriettes dam.
Built from 1948 to 1952 by EDF to generate electricity, the Gloriettes dam is a 47 metre high arch dam.
We had a long descent ahead of us to reach the small hamlet of Héas, located at 1,550 metres at the foot of the Cirque de Troumouse.
From our vantage point, we had tremendous views of the Héas Valley as seen from departmental road 176 that leads to the Gloriettes dam. Descending via this road was a challenge in itself with single lanes, tight hairpin turns and a constant flow of traffic!
Nevertheless, it had to be done to get us to the tiny settlement of Héas where we had planned on camping overnight to break up an even longer day to the Barroude Lakes where we would wild camp tomorrow night. With just a few houses and a chapel, Héas was just a stop of convenience, nothing more. We had hoped that we could get an evening meal from the Auberge de la Munia Hostel that runs the campsite located next door – Le Cairn Camping, however when we enquired about food, we were told in no uncertain terms, “No food, we are full tonight”. But they were happy to take our €14 for camping and another €7 for a half carafe of wine – but no food, not even a sniff of a cheese sandwich! (Although to be fair, we were getting quite fed up of bread and cheese after 3 weeks if it. No matter how it’s repackaged e.g. with tomato or avocado or even in an omelette – we are definitely having far too much cheese and bread! But if they’d have offered us just that, we’d have taken it. Literally, everywhere in France sells cheese and bakes their own bread! But clearly not today.)
Finally reaching the Héas Valley where we continued along the road to the Auberge La Munia and Le Cairn Camping.
Stunning sunset skies become the backdrop to the hostel and chapel known as ‘The Notre-Dame de Héas’.
Instead then, we had to rustle something up with what meagre rations we had left, which resulted in ‘Leek and Potato Soup’ with ‘Tagliatelle Pasta’ served with bread, followed by us sharing a Twix bar. You won’t find that on our Trail Kitchen menu and it’s definitely a meal that won’t be repeated!
Setting up camp and making the best of things seeing as we couldn’t get an evening meal at the hostel.
But with our bellies warm and full, our make-shift meal would suffice. We needed to have a calorie deficit anyway after two town days of over-indulgence! With little else to do but to retire to the tent after dinner, it didn’t take long for us fall asleep. It’s surprising how much we are able to sleep without television and internet to distract us and without having to get up at a regimented time in the morning like on a work day. I can never sleep this much at home, but then again we are putting in the miles and our bodies need rest to do it all over again day after day!
Day 21 – ‘Grade 3 Anticipation’ Thursday 22nd August, 2019, Le Cairn Camping, Next to Auberge de la Munia, Heas to Wild Camp at Lacs de Barroude, HRP, 13km
Even though we’re predominantly hiking the HRP, which in itself is the ‘High Route’ of the Pyrenees, we still get apprehensive when our guidebook gives warnings. Today for instance, it informed us that the route ‘… May be difficult to navigate…’ or ‘…Involves a steep descent on loose scree so care must be taken!‘ – and with a classification of ‘Grade 3′ today was one of those days to be cautious. We weren’t quite sure what to expect as today’s route involved hiking up to 2,608 metres to the Hourquette de Heas, a hidden pass on the Crete des Aguillous in which the guidebook said we would face ‘several challenges‘ and that ‘…the route to the Hourquette is steep and not easily found’. With this playing on our minds, maybe that’s why we had an extra hour of sleep, not waking up until 8am as a delay tactic, and then we seemed to dilly dally at camp having porridge for breakfast and two cups of tea waiting for the sun to crest over the mountains and dry out our damp tent.
It wasn’t until 10:45am then that we finally left camp, setting off up the road looking for a turning on the left-hand side that would take us on a climb through the Vallon de Touyeres. With a waterfall to our left, we followed an obvious stony path zigzagging up the grassy mountainside where we quickly gained height. From this vantage point we could see the road snaking it’s way through the Héas Valley up which we had walked yesterday and the tiny church – ‘The Notre-Dame de Héas’ nestled on the hillside. The campervans and motorhomes all boon-docking in the car parking area that we had passed on our way to rejoin the trail looked like tiny specks way down in the valley below.
As we then climbed higher we were afforded excellent views back to the east face of Vignemale and the Pyrenees’ second largest glacier, the Glacier d’Ossoue. It was remarkable to think that we had been walking around the north face just a few days before as it looked so far away, yet it was still dominating the skyline, the jagged peak of the Grand Vignemale piercing today’s brilliant sky of blue.
Looking back down the Héas Valley towards the chapel where several motorhomes had set up camp in a grassy area beside the road.
Looking up to the ridge line where it was impossible for us to determine the exact location of the Hourquette de Heas, a hidden pass on the Crete des Aguillous.
Passing an oratory and a fountain just before we entered the National Parc area.
So far our walk had been splendid and even better when we reached the Ruisseau de l’Aguila, where we stopped for a snack break on a small grassy plateau opposite the Cabane de l’Aguila, we finally spotted the well-hidden pass on the Crete des Aguillous. Looking carefully across the giant wall of rock ahead of us, we could see a faint track zigzagging up through the rock face trailing off into the distance. Following along the top of the ridge to the right with our eyes, we could then just make out the outline of a cairn standing prominent along the top of the ridge. That, we agreed, was the Hourquette de Heas, and now we could see we knew our route up. The switchbacks looked both long and very gradual, so from our viewpoint we didn’t think that the climb to the pass would be too onerous. Maybe the elements of why this segment was given a ‘Grade 3’ rating came later in the day…
Reaching the top of the ridge and enjoying the impressive view back down the valley.
It was an excellent spot to have a quick break!
Less than an hour later, we had zigzagged up the rocky path created from piles of slate and made it to the top of the pass at 2,608 metres! It was an incredible feeling looking over from one beautiful valley into another. With such superb views we made it our lunch stop so that we could spend an extended period of time enjoying the tremendous landscape stretching out in front of us with mountain ranges surpassing mountain ranges as far as the eye could see. The cairn, located above us on a rocky outcrop, was just a quick scramble up for even better views looking down to the pass.
Making a quick scramble from the Hourquette de Héas to the cairn located directly above the pass. From this vantage point the views across the mid-Pyrenees were far reaching.
Wayne sits on the Hourquette de Héas at 2,608 metres, the gap in the Crete des Aguillous that is difficult to spot from the valley floor.
Panorama showing how it is possible to look into both valleys from the pass.
Descending on the east side of the col, first over giant slabs of rock, we understood why the author had given the route a ‘Grade 3’ rating after all. If we had been traversing the slabs in wet weather or if visibility had been poor, they would have been much more challenging. As it was, with glorious weather, clear views and no wind to speak of, our descent was straightforward, even on the scree paths winding around the mountainside, some zigzagging down quite steeply. With a good pace, it actually felt like we were flying downhill, and we quickly descended to 2,300 metres.
It wasn’t long before we then had to tackle a second climb taking us up to the second pass of the day – the Hourquette de Chermentas at 2,439 metres. Taking another quick break to soak up the views, we then pushed on, eager to reach the Barroude Lakes where had planned on wild camping.
Stopping for another quick break to take in the breathtaking views from the Hourquette de Chermentas, before descending to the Barroude Lakes.
It wasn’t quite so straightforward reaching the lakes as first we had to descend over the east side of the pass, fortunately on good switchbacks before then having to climb along the impressive rock faces of the Pic d’Aguillous. Bending around the peak, the path then climbed more gently along the immense Barroude wall taking us first to the largest of the two lakes. It looked a sublime place to camp with its green-blue waters and little grassy peninsulas all around. With beauty however comes popularity. As we had predicted, there were several hikers already dotted around the lake in anticipation of setting up their tents once the bivouac times came into play, having chosen what they each considered was the best spot to camp.
Hiking below the immense Barroude Wall towards the largest lake.
Our plan however was to go up to the second, smaller lake and camp a little higher facing east in anticipation of tomorrow’s sunrise, as recommended in our guidebook. Fortunately when we arrived around 5pm, there was no one at the second lake, so we set the tent up straight away. (We doubted very much that anyone from the Parc National would be coming to check on campers here.) Camping higher up, whilst having views down to the second lake also meant that we had the sun on us for longer before it dipped behind the giant wall of rock known in French as the Muraille de Barroude. (This also meant we had a little sunbathing and relaxation time before getting on with some camp chores!)
Setting up camp a little higher up from the lake with tomorrow’s sunrise in mind.
Gentle reflections on the smaller of the two lakes.
Looking across the lake to tomorrow’s route where a short ascent would lead us over the Port de Barroude marking the French-Spanish border, before descending to the Valle de Barrosa on the Spanish side.
Camping close to the lake meant we not only had access to water for drinking and cooking (after filtering) but we could also have a good old-fashioned wash with our collapsible bucket and flannel. It always feels good when we’re able to clean properly at the end of the day with water instead of wet wipes, something that was often difficult on the PCT, especially in the desert section.
Enjoying tremendous views of the imposing Barroude Wall from the tent, whilst Wayne cooks dinner.
When the sun dipped behind the giant barrier of granite and we found ourselves in shadow, it soon felt cold. So we put on our nightwear and Wayne got on with the task of cooking dinner. We had quite meagre rations again, but it tasted a whole lot better than last night’s concoction. Tonight, we had tagliatelle pasta with ‘Tomato and Basil’ soup mixed in as a sauce with a cube of cream cheese melted in. We were just missing some garlic bread! Not to worry, we would be at Parzan across the border in Spain by tomorrow lunchtime where we’d be having lunch at a café and resupplying with some hearty food to get us to the next town of Benasque. (Or so we hoped!)
It suddenly seemed like it had been a long week with the great many ascents and descents we had undertaken – but a superb week at that with the grandiose cirques and magnificent valleys we had walked through! As we were about to embark on ‘Week 4’, we couldn’t help but think had we now seen the best of it? Could the Pyrenees possibly get any better than this? Tomorrow we would walk on to find out…
4 Comments
Really enjoyed reading about the first couple of days of this stretch as it was one we walked a few years back. We were doing it by hut tour rather than wild camp which was against my wishes but my wife and son didn’t want to carry the weight! I was longing after a wild camp in most of the areas you walked through especially around Respomuso, Campo-plana and Aratielle.
We did it very different conditions in late June where there was way more snow than we thought and we had some interesting experiences and one epic of a day. The trip is on my blog and I’ve linked the first instalment (the short tour around the Pic du Midi D’Ossau) below with a second set of posts around our trip through this region if you’re interested to see a slightly “whiter” view of the area!
https://surfnslide.wordpress.com/2016/07/10/pyrenees-a-tour-of-the-pc-du-midi-dossau/
We were disappointed not to have time to hike around Gavernie so loved your pictures. You are heading into another area I’ve walked (around Benasque) although that was back in the early 90’s! We had a great trip and some wonderful wild camps. Looking forward to more familiar scenes I hope. The Pyrenees is just made for long distance hiking and wild camping.
All the best
Andy
Wow! I’ve just had a look at your blog posts detailing your ‘Pyrenees Grand Tour’. You had so much snow to contend with on Days 2 & 3!
I think the scenery looks even better with snow on the peaks, and especially striking around Respomuso – so different to August conditions.
I really appreciate the link to your route around the Pic du Midi D’Ossau as we have said next time we return to the Pyrenees, we would like to experience this section from the French side, having visited Ibones de Anayet twice already.
You have captured some great landscape shots to show the conditions in June – what a different experience to ours – thanks for sharing!👌
Hope you’re staying safe and well in these uncertain times,
Best wishes,
Danielle & Wayne
Wow, just WOW! What an incredible scenery You have captured. And those wild camping spots …
Thanks for publishing this.
All the best and stay away from this COVID-19 thing
Marcus
In these strange and uncertain times, especially with having to stay indoors, writing the blog and looking back at our pics is a welcome relief.
We can’t wait to get back on trail… but seems like it will be some months yet before everything will return to ‘normal’.
Sending warmest wishes and hoping you also stay safe and well,
Danielle & Wayne