“Strength does not come from physical capacity. It comes from an indomitable will”.
– Mahatma Gandhi
The Twenty-Fourth Week – The Final Countdown!
Making it to the Canadian border at last!
Day 161 – Tuesday, 18th September 2018, Wild Camp by Miners Creek at Mile 2,549 to Holden Village via PCT Alternate due to the Bannock Fire Closure, 14 miles
After pushing on and hiking well into the dark last night, we allowed ourselves some slack this morning and didn’t leave camp until around 8am. We were still surprised by the fact we had been the only thru-hikers to have made camp by Miners Creek and that we had awoken to a relative state of solitude – a feeling that had increasingly been lacking since the herd marching forth to Canada had begun converging. Now with the onset of winter fast approaching, everyone, including ourselves, had become relentless in their quest to make it to the border within the next week or so.
It seemed that today however, we had got ourselves into a position where we had just edged ahead of the bubble and were no longer part of the great caravan of walkers. This was by and large due to the dreadful weather just a couple of days ago that had forced the majority of hikers to camp before the pass preceding the long descent to Milk Creek. We on the other hand, had continued on and battled through the bitter cold, driving rain and freak snowstorm to thankfully make it safely over the pass on ‘The day thou shalt not be mentioned’.
Our spacious camp spot by Miners Creek. We were relishing the good fortune of being alone and savouring the solitude.
Setting off and tackling our first creek crossing of the day.
As the trail opened out, we were lucky enough to glimpse a cloud inversion hanging in the valley.
Alone on the trail once more, we savoured the seclusion whilst walking the final 3 miles to the junction at PCT Mile 2,552 leading to Cloudy Pass. On reaching the junction, we had an excellent view of Glacier Peak, the fourth tallest peak in Washington state at 10,519 ft, covered in a fresh dusting of snow. It was here that Jess and Jarrod caught up with us after a dedicated 6:30am start. (Just like we knew they would!)
Looking onto Glacier Peak – the most isolated of the five major strato volcanoes of the Cascade Volcanic Arc in Washington.
Looking down into the valley before tackling Cloudy Pass.
Climbing higher, both the trail and the surrounding trees were also covered in a fresh coating of crisp, white snow, which made the landscape look all the more beautiful and picturesque. The feeling of calm induced from the charming scene was very short-lived however due to warnings given by a passing SOBO and two day-hikers about the conditions of trail that lay ahead. Following closely after one other, they alerted us to the fact that the next mile of trail was extremely icy and slippery – “…So to take great care as we could easily slip and break a leg!” (How to reduce a competent hiker into a gibbering wreck in one sentence – thanks to that little gem of advice!)
Becoming aware of the potential dangers we were now faced with made me all the more nervous and extra cautious as we began zig-zagging our way up the switchbacks leading to the top of the pass, so much so that I began moving at a tentative one mile an hour pace along the next section of trail in fear that I would slip and fall again, which would be thoroughly disastrous this close to the finish.
Taking the alternate route leading to Holden Village via Cloudy Pass due to the Bannock Fire forcing another closure of the PCT.
Leaving the PCT we were still treated to tremendous mountain views.
The colours of autumn cling to the ground whilst a dusting of snow covers the rocky slopes leading to Cloudy Pass.
When we finally reached the top of Cloudy Pass, it was like stepping into another world. With the appearance of an intense sun that was now unexpectedly dominating overhead, the delicate snow was now melting fast. Looking out to the distant peaks piercing a sky of hazy blue, we felt like we were experiencing the best weather and witnessing the greatest views we’d had for days.
Reaching the top of Cloudy Pass and we were treated to a wonderful spectacle!
A patchwork of colour cloaks the mountains on our PCT detour.
With the sun working its magic, the wonderful panorama we were presented with when we came over the top of the pass is what we considered to be one of the most spectacular viewpoints in Washington – and it wasn’t even on the PCT! The current alternate route we had chosen to take suddenly treated us to a magnificent glaciated peak where we found ourselves looking directly onto Spider Gap – a notch in the mountain that collects the turquoise glacial waters of the Upper and Lower Lyman lakes, each running downhill feeding the next. It was such a mesmerising spectacle that we couldn’t resist stopping at such a splendid viewpoint to dry out our tent and other wet gear along with our trusted trail friends, Jess and Jarrod. Being in good company, we ended up staying well over an hour enjoying hot coffee and dining on one of our latest food staples – Chinese flavoured rice and tuna.
Sharing the finest views with the best of trail friends!
Multi-tasking at its best! Drying out our gear whilst cooking lunch and catching up with friends, amidst spectacular mountain scenery.
Panorama looking towards Lyman Lake and Spider Gap.
Revelling in the wonderful weather and impressive views despite the fact we were having to divert off the PCT onto an alternate route!
The fluffy, feather-like Pasque flower seed heads are a unique part of the alpine bloom in Washington state.
With less than a week remaining on our Pacific Crest Trail adventure, Washington was finally coming into one’s own!
Forcing ourselves to resume walking again after such a pleasant interlude, we then quickly reached the lower of the Lyman Lakes after a mile or so, beyond which we walked along the trail to the left of the lake and down to Holden Village. This final segment ending at the village – a year-round Lutheran Christian centre – was only meant to be around 11 miles, yet it seemed much longer, especially as we were hungry again and just wanted to get there!
Setting off for Holden Village, enjoying some rare Washington sunshine!
Following the marked detour around Lyman Lake to Holden Village.
Looking onto the glistening turquoise waters of Lyman Lake.
Heading through the Railroad Creek Valley to Hart Lake. Beyond the lake lies Holden Village where we had planned on staying overnight. Quite unexpectedly, it proved to be our little piece of heaven in northern Washington and a much-appreciated pick-me-up prior to the last few days on trail.
More splendid scenery, reigniting our sheer love for the mountains!
It seemed an endless walk through the valley before we saw any real signs of civilisation.
Passing a small waterfall, glad that the weather was holding in our favour today!
Men on the trail… Wayne and Jarrod maintain momentum and keep our spirits up with just a few days to go!
Heading into the Wenatchee National Forest…
Enjoying the changing colour of the fluttering aspens lining the trail.
Our journey through the Glacier Peak Wilderness had showcased some of the best scenery since the Sierra.
When we finally set foot in Holden Village late afternoon, we succumbed to the $99 per person ‘Hiker Special’ (along with Jarrod and Jess), which secured us a bed for the night, and included shower, laundry, 3 meals and a shuttle bus ride to the Lucerne Landing where we had planned on taking a ferry across Lake Chelan to Stehekin the following morning. The village was quiet so we quickly got settled in and went off to the dining hall area to enjoy a late afternoon tea that consisted of toast, cereal, fruit and hot chocolates as we had missed the included lunch. There was only one other hiker there at that time, so we looked through the guest register to see who had recently passed through and instantly saw Co-Pilot’s name. To our surprise, he had passed through Holden Village this morning but had taken the shuttle straight to Lake Chelan enabling him to get the ferry to Stehekin the same day. With overtaking us in order to keep on track with his own end-date, it was such a shame that having been just a few miles apart, we wouldn’t now see him again on the PCT.
Finally reaching Holden Village where we took advantage of the special ‘hiker rate’ and decided to stay the night.
Our cosy cabin room bed. The village had a wonderful ‘family’ feel and hikers felt very welcomed.
Having our own room meant that we were able to get everything out of our packs and begin a military style ‘drying’ operation once more. It helped immensely that the room had a fan heater and knowing that our gear would now be dry in readiness to embark on the final 5 days really lifted our spirits. The same thoughts must have crossed the minds of every other thru-hiker today, as by the time we’d had showers and returned to the dining room for dinner there were at least 20 other hikers milling around. Looking half-starved and thoroughly bedraggled, they had just checked in for the night and were beginning to queue up for food.
Eager to indulge in the ‘Deli Dinner’ that had been prepared for that evening, (which was basically ‘make your own sandwiches’ from freshly baked bread), we saw lots of familiar trail faces, including Emily, Pete and Snack Pack who had powered on to catch up with us. Hill Billy and Buzzard who had been behind us and had stopped at Cloudy Pass that morning for a break were also now in line, along with the ‘original’ Milkshake whom we had last seen in Cascade Locks before crossing the Bridge of the Gods from Oregon into Washington. Remarkably, we also bumped into Ladies Phirst whom we had first met in Sierra City, (which seemed such a long while ago now) and even Blueberry, as well as Picnic, had also made it to the village before nightfall.
After filling up on triple-decker club sandwiches like every good hiker would, the pièce de résistance was visiting the village ‘Ice Cream Parlour’, which only opened on Tuesdays between 7:30pm and 8:30pm. For a mere $1 per scoop, we couldn’t resist so many tempting flavours! Feeling entirely stuffed after so much food and ice-cream, it was not surprising then that we just wanted to lay down and enjoy the comfort of having a bed for the night!
This particular detour had certainly made for an excellent start to our final week on trail. Along with such wonderful comforts that the village provides for complete strangers, another real highlight of the day for us was meeting people living and working in the village itself. This was especially so when an elderly woman visiting the village asked us if we were thru-hiking. When we explained that we were from the UK and that we had started walking from the Mexican border in April, and that we were now nearing the end of our long-distance hiking adventure, she wanted to take our photo. Then when she said she was so impressed with our efforts and very excited to have met some ‘real-life’ hikers, it made us feel very much like celebrities and really take stock of how far we’d come! With just 5 more days to go to reach the Canadian border, there’s no giving up now…
Day 162 – Wednesday, 19th September 2018, Holden Village via PCT Alternate due to the Bannock Fire Closure, shuttle to Lucerne Landing, ferry to Stehekin, shuttle to High Bridge, rejoining the PCT at Mile 2,572, Six Mile Camp in North Cascades National Park at Mile 2,583, 11 miles
After a restful night, everyone was up and swarming around the ‘Hiker Bar’ from 6:30am to 7:30am making sandwiches and filling up bags of homemade trail mix to take with them on the trail that day. Breakfast was then served promptly at 7:30am, which today was a simple continental style with cereals, yoghurt and mixed fruit. I wasn’t too upset about their not being any eggs or hash browns as I now have a penchant for peanut butter, sliced banana and jam toasted sandwiches, a filling combination that I would never entertain at home!
It wasn’t the selection of food that was the best part of breakfast however; it was the ‘guest’ Lutheran pastor Julia Lakey who had written a heart-felt poem, which she then read aloud during the short First Word service. It was a dedication to all of the PCT hikers who had passed through the village this season, most of whom like ourselves, stay the night and have meals in the village dining hall, in which today there were well over 30 thru-hikers enjoying breakfast together! It was a fantastic poem with wonderful, accurate descriptions of a thru-hiker’s journey, which I have permission to reproduce here:
Ode to the PCT Hikers
They arrive along Holden Village’s Main Street,
An array of kilts, leggings and beards,
Shorts, tattoos, and braids.
Bearing large packs and walking sticks
They stride on dusty legs of iron
That have carried them nearly 2600 miles.
They flaunt colourful trail names like Mugwort, Phoenix,
Flip Flop, Sisyphus, Charlie Horse, Neon, Huck, Face Plant,
Treebeard, Info, Artemis, Trail Quail, St. Bernard, and Navigator.
Nearing the Canadian end of the Pacific Crest Trail,
Our trail-weary guests join us for showers, laundry,
And stories over a hot meal.
Wet tents dry in the sun, festooned around the loading dock.
Crowding into the Bookstore,
They carefully peruse lightweight necessities
And candy, fistfuls of candy!
With precise English, their accents are from Germany,
France, Austria, Korea, the UK, Australia,
And from Nashville to upstate New York.
These thru-hikers travel a fire detour for the final 100 miles
That began near Mexico this spring.
Treasuring their months in the wilderness,
They trudge undaunted into the autumn rainfall or deepening twilight.
Julia Lakey, Holden Village, Washington
September 2018
Reading the poem in print gives me goose bumps. Had we really walked all the way from the Mexican border to here? It seemed very surreal. But as we rapidly re-packed our bags for what felt like the zillionth time and organised our room – it was all true, the reality quickly hitting us when we vacated the room by way of the smell through the corridor. The strong aroma of the ‘unwashed’ – a damp, fusty, sweaty stench emanating from backpacks and gear that had blood, sweat and tears ingrained into every seam. It was like no other and completely unavoidable! No wonder all the hikers were put together in Lodge 2! (Unless you’ve experienced the smell of a fusty backpack or sleeping bag after continued use, it’s hard to comprehend how bad it was coming from several people combined.)
A thoughtful touch – Hikers were able to make themselves a packed lunch to take with them on trail before breakfast was served.
A few of the early birds waiting for breakfast, which started at 7:30am.
Putting smells aside, we felt extremely lucky! We had blue skies overhead and the sun was shining again, bestowing on us another day of lovely ‘fall’ weather that we were so thankful for now that we had managed to get everything dry. The temperature had even risen to around 18 degrees Celsius so we enjoyed wearing shorts and a t-shirt again, which we assumed would most likely be for the final time of the thru-hike.
It felt like a ‘tourist day’ of sorts as we were taking the shuttle service from Holden to the Lucerne Landing dock departing at 10:45am. (The $10 per person fee was included in the price of staying in the village.) Waiting on the Main Street to take over 30 fervent hikers to meet the ferry at Lake Chelan, which is Washington’s largest natural lake, were two yellow school buses now loaded with the same number of backpacks. After milling around for an hour or so, there was then one mass hiker exodus from Holden. As we peered through the windows of the bus and waved to the locals who had so kindly opened up their community to us, it seemed succinctly apt that Buzzard and Hill Billy should be playing song ‘Exodus‘ by Bob Marley as we drove away from the village.
Putting our backpacks on board the bus.
Wayne attempts another repair of his shoes! He is determined to make them last the final 5 days!
Waiting around in the village for the bus’ departure.
All aboard and ready for our journey to the ferry landing!
It was a half hour drive to go the ten miles to the landing dock on the only road in and out of Holden. We literally had just enough time to go to the toilet before the ferry arrived for an 11:45am departure to Stehekin, which is a tiny town located 11 miles east of the PCT. It is accessible to the outside world only by foot, floatplane or ferry. Much of the town’s economy comes from the fact it is located within the Lake Chelan National Recreation Area and is also the gateway to the North Cascades National Park. (Ferry tickets were $8.50 per person.) Hikers quickly formed a chain to pass backpacks onto the boat and then immediately started a queue at ‘The Galley’ in readiness to buy beer for the 45 minute journey. Living up to my ‘Two Plates’ namesake, we bought two bottles of beer each so that we wouldn’t have to queue again! We then quite unexpectedly saw two familiar faces already aboard by way of Sky Blazer whom we had not seen since Chester, in Northern California and Tipsy, whom we had not seen since Mount Hood in Oregon. This was more proof that the herd was most definitely converging!
At the Lucerne Landing getting ready for the ferry to depart.
Getting organised for loading the backpacks onto the boat.
Making the most of the 45-minute journey and indulging in a couple of beers. It was also great to bump into some old trail pals who were already on board.
We arrived in Stehekin promptly at 12:30pm and although we were eager to make it to the infamous ‘bakery’, we had just an hour and a half turn around before the 2:00pm shuttle leaving for High Bridge where we were going to rejoin the PCT. So first we had to collect boxes from the Post Office, as well as collect a free permit from the Visitor Centre to be able to camp within the North Cascades National Park. As we had such limited time, to relieve some pressure I went off to the Post Office with Jarrod, whilst Wayne went to organise permits with Jess. Luckily he was able to acquire a combined permit of 8 for all of us (Me, Wayne, Jarrod, Jess, Snack Pack, Blueberry, Pete and Emily), which enabled us to camp 11 miles up trail at the designated ‘Six Mile’ camp – named so, as it is located six miles before the park boundary. With us then not getting back on trail until 3:00pm, 11 miles seemed doable before dark.
Before catching the next shuttle, we sorted out our food resupply and bounce box and had a quick re-pack of our backpacks, as from here onwards, everything we owned and had brought with us to the US would now have to be carried to the Canadian border, including Wayne’s tripod that he had no choice but to be reunited with. (This was something he was not too happy about as it instantly added another kilogram to his already full pack.)
The tiny Post Office in Stehekin that we had sent our final resupply package and bounce box to.
It was $8.50 per person for the ‘Red Shuttle’ that took us from Stehekin to the High Bridge Ranger Station at PCT Mile 2,572 where we could rejoin the PCT. The shuttle also includes a quick pit-stop at the Stehekin Bakery where the minibus waits for ten minutes. Psyched up for some freshly baked goodies, all of us raced off the minibus eager to get our hands on a sweet treat as it is a renowned stop on the PCT for excellent home-cooked food. We purchased a bag of fresh seeded bagels, (which would make a nice change), a sticky cinnamon roll and Wayne opted for a large blueberry scone – not that we really needed to add anything else to our already burdensome loads. With the additional gear from our bounce box added to our load, our packs were already feeling really heavy, particularly as we had got used to carrying a lighter load since Oregon. Overall, we were not really carrying any more weight than when we had carried bear cans and 5 or 6 days worth of food in the Sierra, but as all 11 miles were steadily going uphill towards Rainy Pass, our bodies quickly complained at the extra load – mine being an extra set of clothes for both Canada and Hong Kong, plus extra toiletries, and additionally we were now each carrying a small bottle of Prosecco for the finish!
Built in 1989, the Stehekin Pastry Co. is located two miles up the Stehekin Valley Road from the boat landing and is renowned along the PCT as one of the must-visit places to stock up with freshly baked home-cooked goodies.
Stocking up for the final few days on the PCT. Hikers must keep the bakery in business in the later months of the year!
Passing an old truck as we head to High Bridge to rejoin the PCT.
After taking a few moments to enjoy the beautiful reflections on Howard Lake at PCT Mile 2,573, we then powered up the trail making it to camp with only one snack/ drink break by 7:30pm. In the fading light we just managed to pitch the tent, then filter water from the nearby river before it was completely dark. As we had set up camp in a National Park designated camp area, we were required to hang our food bags over a wire that had been provided so as to discourage any bears in the vicinity from stealing human food. Thru-hikers – Ghost and Ice T – the two German guys we had first met in Northern California after leaving Castella, and whom we had seen recently at the Kracker Barrel store and Snoqualmie here in Washington, had also acquired permits for this particular camp. Arriving first and unbeknown to them however, they had set their tents up in the communal cook area, which was really close to the food hang wire. It would have been too much hassle to move their tents and gear at this late hour, so we all joked that we had our very own ‘food security team’ in the possible event that a bear did come into camp intent on getting the food bags down. With 10 of them suspended from the wire, the food bags looked very tempting and a good challenge for a hungry bear in need of some stimulation.
Looking upon the beautiful reflections on Howard Lake at PCT Mile 2,573. It felt good to be back on trail knowing we had less than 90 miles to go!
Entering the North Cascades National Park.
Leaving the PCT and heading down a side trail to ‘Six Mile’ Camp – a designated group campsite in the North Cascades National Park.
Sitting on logs in the ‘Cook Area’ and filling up on hot food along with enjoying some camp banter, it wasn’t too long before we all got in our tents and called it a day. It had rapidly grown cold so we were in need of the warmth of our sleeping bags now that we no longer had the luxury and associated comforts of sleeping indoors. With us all camping together, I guess we had at last officially acquired ourselves a ‘trail family’ for the final few days of our PCT adventure seeing as we now all had the end date of 23rd September in mind.
Day 163 – Thursday, 20th September 2018, Six Mile Camp in North Cascades National Park at Mile 2,583 to Wild Camp by Methow River at Mile 2,607, 24 miles
Thankfully it had remained quiet all through the night and our food bags remained intact. If there was a bear anywhere near the vicinity of our camp, we certainly didn’t see any signs of one. (Maybe that was a good thing!) Getting ready for the long day ahead, before we all left camp we pondered the prospect of trail magic happening at Rainy Pass. With our packs only yesterday stocked with some fresh supplies, it wasn’t that we were desperate for food. But trail magic always gave us something to look forward to and that little extra spring in our step, as well as a reason to enjoy a longer break! So it was with great delight that when we reached Highway 20 and Rainy Pass at PCT Mile 2,591, we were treated to a double dose of extra wonderful ‘trail magic’ courtesy of both the Madd Baker and Dog Mom who had set up tarpaulins and chairs at the Rainy Pass trailhead. With hot coffee, corn on the cobs wrapped in silver foil keeping warm, mugs of corn chowder with bacon and homemade coconut and chocolate chip vegan biscuits of offer – how could we just walk on past?!
Collecting our food bags in the morning, we were pleased to see they had not been disturbed. As per usual, we were some of the last hikers to vacate camp.
A helpful tree across the river to save us from getting wet shoes!
Passing the mini PCT monument just before the Rainy Pass trailhead, erected when the remaining section of trail through to the Canadian border had been closed due to wild fires in the Pasayten Wilderness Area.
Reaching the Rainy Pass trailhead, a significant point in our journey as it could have all ended here had the PCT remained closed due to wild fires in the Pasayten Wilderness Area. Thankfully a re-route to the northern terminus was now in place.
Hot soup, coffee and sweetcorn made for an excellent trail magic treat from Dog Mom and her partner.
Equally as moreish were the coconut and chocolate chip vegan biscuits made by the Madd Baker.
With so many wonderful treats on offer, we stayed for around an hour sat on comfy chairs with blankets, savouring the variation in food, especially the hot soup. If it was to be our last trail magic on the PCT, we wanted to make the most of it, so we ate plenty to keep us going and see us over the next pass.
Beginning the final section of the PCT, Washington Section L – from Rainy Pass to the end at Highway 3 and Manning Park, we had several passes to contend with including Cutthroat Pass, Granite Pass and Methow Pass – but comparable to the tremendous passes in the Sierra, these were merely babies ranging from 6,000 – 7,000 feet. Along with the earlier trail magic, the highlight of our day happened just before reaching Granite Pass, where we were thrilled to have hit the 2,600 mile marker! It felt like we were on the home stretch at last.
Passing a small waterfall, we filtered and topped up our supplies as the water looked so clear.
Washington showcases dramatic mountainscapes.
Continuing north where the trail was well-trodden and easy to navigate.
Enjoying the bright colours and smells of autumn. We were able to cover a lot of ground quickly on such a good section of trail.
Enjoying the tremendous views as we made our way up to Cutthroat Pass.
The trail switchbacking up to Cutthroat Pass is considered as one of the most scenic stretches in Washington state, particularly in fall.
Panorama looking out to the jagged peaks in the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest.
Hitting the final 70.3 mile section of the PCT through northern Washington.
A rare photograph together courtesy of a passing day walker! We enjoyed even more stunning views stood at the top of Granite Pass at 6,319 feet.
The trail meanders across the rocky slopes that as yet, were still free from snow.
What a treat! Walking through the rugged, rolling terrain of the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest.
Happy that the weather was holding and that so far we had avoided any rain… But looking at the skies, we knew it was coming.
Looking across to the wonderful wooded valleys below.
The route took us through rugged ridges overlooking several jagged peaks.
Looking across to where the trail winds across the mountainside and continues to Methow Pass.
So incredibly happy to have made it 2,600 miles on foot!
Finally making it to Methow Pass at PCT Mile 2,602, reaching an elevation of 6,594 feet, we stopped at the top for a quick snack before heading down to the West Fork Methow River where we’d all planned on camping. Fortunately, we managed to find a large enough spot to pitch our tent before crossing the river, which was opposite Jarrod and Jess, before a record number of PCTers then hiked through the camp area all looking for a spot of their own. With darkness having fallen, we were glad to have arrived just before the herd, especially after a 24 mile day.
Steadily making our way towards Methow Pass on a thin trail along the mountain slopes.
Keeping our heads down and putting our best foot forward, determined to reach camp before dark.
Our final picture before camp as everything became a mad rush to find a big enough camp spot before the herd descended and darkness fell! The final 3 days then happened in a whirlwind…
Day 164 – Friday, 21st September 2018, Wild Camp by Methow River at Mile 2,607 to Wild Camp 6 miles into PCT detour due to the Holman Fire Closure, 23 miles
With the rain finally falling throughout the night, we were reluctant to leave the comfort of our tent hence we were late leaving camp this morning! 8:00am might not seem late to be starting a hiking day, but now that there are less than 12 hours of daylight, it’s important that we stay on track if we want to avoid hiking in the dark. Thankfully, seeing as we have had shorter days this last week (we now class 23 miles as a shorter day!) it has not impacted on our finish time, which to our great relief has generally been around 6:30pm each night. So with this in mind, and an update on our Garmin stating that there was an 80% chance of rain forecast today, we left in full wet weather gear as we wanted to be prepared. To our great fortune however, it turned out to be a gorgeous day with the sun shining brightly until early afternoon, before it retreated behind the growing clouds and we experienced a little drizzle.
The fall foliage puts on a brilliant display of reds, golds, yellows and green throughout this final stretch on the PCT.
We were apprehensive about the low cloud and prepared for the worst with our wet weather gear, however the sun managed to break through for a pleasant morning.
At PCT Mile 2,612 we reached Glacier Pass at 5,581 feet. From here we enjoyed a fantastic ridge walk with excellent views to both sides of the valley. Testing our mettle with our heavy packs, we were faced with several switchbacks up to the top, but once up high, the PCT generally kept us there with a well defined-trail winding all the way to Harts Pass. Here we happened to see Ladies Phirst once again, so we made arrangements with him to meet in Vancouver for celebratory beers! We’re on the cusp of success and simply can’t wait now! With just two more days to go, it was beginning to become a blur with the fervour of excitement rippling through everyone we spoke to!
Glacier Pass has clearly had some uplift since the last signage was put in place as maps and data now show it as being 5,581 feet.
Following the Cascade Crest we looked upon several prominent northern Washington peaks, including Azurite Peak and Tatie Peak, as we made our way to Harts Pass.
Looking across to Azurite Peak as we walked along the ridge.
Continuing on towards the pass we saw several ptarmigans along the trail darting in and out of the scrub.
Looking upon Tatie Peak as the trail weaved around the mountainside before heading down to Harts Pass.
A perfect place to stop! Drying out the tent and enjoying a well-deserved tea break at the top of the pass.
Getting closer to the Northern Terminus with every step!
At Mile 2,622, the PCT crosses its final road in the US at Harts Pass. With this being the last road before the Canadian border, it holds great significance for NOBO hikers. Knowing that you are nearing the finish line is both a physical and mental relief, yet it is also bittersweet. For us, as well as the rest of our trail family, it proved to be an emotionally charged moment realising there were about 30 miles left in our journey, but that our greatest adventure to date would soon be coming to an end.
Arriving at Harts Pass around 3pm, there was already a large group of thru-hikers gathered around, sitting alongside the road. Most of them had already been to the Northern Terminus and had their moment of glory at Monument 78 having completed their thru-hike to Canada. They had been forced to return to Harts Pass however after omitting to apply for permits that would legally allow them to cross the border from the US into Canada. After months on trail, battling the heat of the desert and the high passes of the snowy Sierra, the long miles through leafy walkways in Oregon and the unpredictable, cold, wet weather of Washington – these guys had made it! But it was not the party atmosphere we expected. Instead, the mood was a sombre one. Quietly kicking up dust by the roadside, the successful thru-hikers sat there had already waited hours trying to get a hitch to a nearby town to celebrate. (This being the northernmost road providing access to the PCT, it was not frequented that often so late in the season.) It made us very appreciative of the fact our permits were secured so that we would not have to backtrack over 30 miles in order to return to a main road and an exit point!
Looking onto the rugged peaks in the Pasayten Wilderness.
It proved an emotional moment when at last we reached Harts Pass. At PCT Mile 2,622, it is the final road in the US before the Canadian border.
Leaving the subdued ‘finishers’ behind, from the Ranger Hut beside Harts Pass we followed the road and started on the ‘Holman Fire’ detour through the Pasayten Wilderness at PCT Mile 2,623.6. It was a 17.5 mile detour from near the Slate Peak Lookout to Buckskin Ridge, then following the Whistler Trail to the Robinson Creek Trail, after which the route headed west on the Rock Creek Trail to Woody Pass, rejoining the PCT at Mile 2,641. Setting off dreaming of the amazing feast we were going to treat ourselves to in just a couple of days time, we found that the trail was mostly well-marked with laminated detour signs. Because of the rain, the trail was a little muddy in places and churned up from the horse traffic but we could tell that work had recently been done to cut back vegetation and clear the trail of debris making for a much pleasanter walk than expected.
Leaving Harts Pass around 4pm, we only had a couple of hours of daylight left, so just after 6pm we set up camp by the Middle Fork Pasayten River around 6 miles or so into the detour. As we shouted “Goodnight” to each other from the relative comfort of our tents (rather amusingly reminiscent of ‘The Waltons’ family), it was exciting to think we had made it to ‘Canada Eve, Eve’!
Day 165 – Saturday, 22nd September 2018, Wild Camp 6 miles into PCT detour due to the Holman Fire Closure to Wild Camp at the Boundary Trail Junction at PCT Mile 2,649, 22 miles
Our penultimate day in Washington on the PCT was literally a washout! Bracing ourselves for a day of extreme wet weather, we left camp around 8:30am focussed on ‘just getting there’! As we were setting off, quite unexpectedly, One Liner and another hiker walked past us coming from the opposite direction. Already being successful in their endeavour to reach the Northern Terminus, they had completed their thru-hike and were now returning to Harts Pass as they too (like the many we saw yesterday) hadn’t got permits to legally cross the border into Canada. Even though hiking back 30 miles to the nearest road would definitely not appeal to us, they were in good spirits and enjoying their ‘victory’ lap, especially as they were greeted with a chorus of “Congratulations” and “Great job!” from us all.
After talking to One Liner and finding out about the conditions of the trail ahead, we made an impromptu decision to go for the ‘unofficial’ alternate route along the Pacific Northwest Trail, turning off at the next junction as it would keep us lower in elevation and shave off four miles of trail compared with the original detour. Lots of hikers yesterday had told us to simply take the original PCT route as the ‘Holman Fire’ was now out and in their opinion because of this, the trail should have been reopened. We ignored their advice however! It wasn’t the $130 fine we were worried about if we were caught, but rather the fact that we could be deported from the country for flouting the law. More importantly, we wouldn’t want to jeopardise our ten-year visa and any return trips to the USA in the future!
Our group camp spot next to the Middle Fork Pasayten River. Packing up in the rain is never a good start to the day! This was one of the reasons we changed routes and went on the ‘unofficial’ alternate route hoping to save ourselves 4 extra detour miles of wet weather walking.
So having started on the official PCT alternate route yesterday (taking Buckskin Ridge to the Whistler Trail, then to Robinson Creek), when we reached the Pasayten Airfield today, after taking a break to dry out and have lunch at the cabin, we then detoured left up the Boundary Trail/ Pacific Northwest Trail.
Having expected the worst in terms of the dismal weather we had woken up to and having had a weather update forecasting heavy rain for most of the day, on the whole, the morning had not turned out so bad. At the forefront of all of our minds was the exciting realisation that today was ‘Canada Eve’! Initially making good inroads on the new route, Emily suggested that when we reached the Boundary Trail Junction where we would rejoin the PCT, that instead of setting up camp there, we push on the final 3 miles to the Northern Terminus and Monument 78, then camp 0.2 miles afterwards, just over the Canadian border. With the intermittent sun bringing on a feel good factor and us all wanting to get to Canada sooner rather than later, we all agreed it was a good plan – especially as we’d get to drink our celebratory bottles of ‘fizzy’ today and hike straight to Manning Park tomorrow for breakfast. (This point being the major ‘selling factor’ that got me to agree to the change of plan!)
To our utter dismay however, by 1:30pm the rain was coming down much heavier, hence with our cameras safely stowed away in our packs, we didn’t get any photos of our penultimate day. Not only were we walking under a continuous downpour, but we were also getting soaked from the raindrops off the vegetation as we fought our way through a now overgrown path. It was frustrating as we were getting wetter by the second and the trail became so rough that our pace slowed right down. It didn’t help that it had been churned up by a mule train heading back out of the valley so we soon found ourselves trudging through wet, slippery mud and trying to dodge the worst of the growing muddy puddles.
It turned out that today therefore we had no chance of making it to the terminus. With the persistent rain, the trail was rapidly turning into a gushing creek that made it difficult to traverse. It didn’t help that the Pacific Northwest Trail was noticeably in need of some maintenance also having several obstructions across the trail. With such hindrances, it made it feel like we were moving at less than two miles per hour and progressing at a snail’s pace.
We were really disappointed that our penultimate day on the trail became one that we just wanted to see the end of. Today there weren’t any beautiful views – it was just wet, cold, muddy and for the most part, downright miserable. If it hadn’t been for the feeling of solidarity created by us all hiking together and keeping ourselves buoyed by the very fact we were finishing tomorrow, I think I would have cried – again – as the driving rain today was much worse than what we had experienced last week after leaving Stevens Pass. We were however in mutual agreement that thank goodness we weren’t hiking across today’s high passes on the proper PCT, as being over 6,000 feet, we would most likely have been walking through a snow storm. (Choosing the alternate route had kept us to the lower elevations missing out Buffalo Pass (6,558 ft), Windy Pass (6,276 ft), Foggy Pass (6,184 ft), Rock Pass (6,486 ft), Woody Pass (6,650 ft), and Hopkins Pass (6,142 ft), which we thought prudent considering the heavy rain and freezing temperatures.) Also keeping us going was knowing that at least tomorrow we’d have a nice warm room to relax in, where we’d be able get everything dry.
It felt like the longest hike ever down to the Boundary Junction where we had originally planned on camping. Arriving in the fading light around 6:30pm, we had been forced to revert to our original plan and camp by the junction along with what felt like the remainder of the PCT hiking community still on trail. There were several tents already pitched in the best spots, so we had to take a soggy patch of scrub alongside Jarrod and Jess who had arrived just before us, and hope for the best in terms of it not seeping through an already overused, patchy ground sheet. Thankfully we were lucky enough to have a brief weather window to pitch the tent in relative dry before the rain came down heavily again, so we were grateful for small mercies at least.
Our final camp dinner seemed like a real feast with spaghetti, Spam, pesto and cream cheese on the menu. It was the perfect winter warmer and pick-me-up in readiness to make it the final 3 miles to Canada in the morning. Sharing out our remaining hot chocolate sachets and getting hot drinks inside us as well, then ensued another ‘Waltons-esque’ moment as we began shouting to each other between tents sharing our favourite moments on the PCT, what we were going to miss and what we would most be looking forward to when we got home. In a real melancholy mood, it was then lights out in our very last night in the tent.
Day 166 – Sunday, 23rd September 2018, Wild Camp at the Boundary Trail Junction at PCT Mile 2,649 to the Northern Terminus at PCT Mile 2,652, + 8 miles to Manning Park, 14 miles
After hearing a sequence of alarms go off from the crack of dawn echoing around the camp area, we were all packed up and ready to go a little after 8am. There were just a few tents remaining at the junction, their inhabitants thru-hikers like ourselves that even after 6 months hadn’t mastered the art of being up and away at first light. But who cared – we would be stepping into Canada TODAY – whatever the hour!
With the other members of our trail family a little way ahead of us, it felt fitting that we should complete the remainder of our journey by ourselves as we had started out. It had been quite a test – not just a physical and mental one – but of our relationship on all levels. Being with the same person 24/7 for an entire 6 months is no easy feat – but we were still going strong and proud of it. The final 3 miles then seemed to pass in a blur as we went on auto-pilot, power-walking the remainder of the Pacific Crest Trail.
In what seemed like a blink of an eye, we were then facing the newly erected Monument 78 at the Northern Terminus. With a line of clear-cut trees straight through the forest up the mountainside denoting the border between two major countries, it felt very surreal standing in the USA, whilst literally being one step away from Canada. There were shouts of laughter and applause from the rest of the guys who had already made it there just a few moments before, along with the popping of corks and a round of ‘champagne’! Holding back tears, it was an emotional moment to have made it 2,652 miles on foot, something 10 years ago I would never have even dreamt of achieving or of even being possible!
The newly erected ‘Monument 78’ at the Northern Terminus.
Toasting our success on walking 2,652 miles and reaching the Canadian border.
We had carried mini bottles of Prosecco since picking up our final resupply package from Stehekin for celebrations at the border.
Wayne enjoys a cigar courtesy of our trail friend Jarrod!
Literally sitting on the border between the USA and Canada.
Celebrating our achievement as a trail family!
Wayne and Jarrod enjoying one of the finer moments in life!
Milking the moment!
Ladies getting in on the celebratory action and sampling my first cigar!
From the perspective of a complete non-smoker, it was funny anyway!
Emily, Pete and Snack Pack sign the trail register at the border.
After spending around half an hour at the Northern Terminus, we were keen to get moving again knowing we still had a little over 8 miles to go to reach Manning Park. Spurring us on was the thought of more celebratory beers, a hot shower and a ‘proper’ meal in the restaurant. Unlike earlier that morning when we had first set off, the final miles seemed to drag as we just wanted to get there.
When we at last left the trail that joined the road leading to the Manning Park Resort, we took a final opportunity to get a group shot of us at the Manning Park sign. Then it was time to put the cameras away and enjoy the comforts of being back in civilisation!
From Manning Park we had booked an apartment in Vancouver where we would be staying for a few days before flying to Hong Kong for my 39th birthday. Following that, we were making plans to travel around China and Taiwan for 3 months, so although our hiking adventure had now come to an end, we would be giving ourselves some time to adjust back into ‘real life’ before returning home and starting work again.
Celebrations are cut short on the realisation we still have 8 miles yet to walk to reach Manning Park.
Stepping into Canada! We had a feeling that these would be the longest 8 miles of the entire journey…
At last! Reaching Manning Park for a hot shower and celebratory beers.
We made it! Our final group photo with the gang. (Now you can see how short I really am!)
The final shot of our trail shoes – lasting around 1,000 miles a piece!
Our much awaited and well-deserved ‘steak’ dinner after getting to our apartment in Vancouver.
The ‘End Game’
Finally reaching the end of such an undertaking still blows our minds – to literally walk across one entire county into another is both a daunting prospect yet an exciting undertaking in itself. Seeking such an adventure sets us apart from so many others, yet connects us to the real world in so many ways!
Yet it wasn’t easy. In the final week, Washington tested our resolve to complete our PCT thru-hike. But with just over 100 miles to go, we braved the cold, wet, miserable weather and pushed on to the Canadian border regardless. In saying that, Washington most definitely had its highlights – the ridge walk in the Goat Rocks Wilderness for instance, was one of our favourite days on the entire trail, with the scenery rivalling any of that in the Sierra.
Reaching the Canadian border on September 23rd, we were both triumphant yet humbled at what an incredible journey on foot we had experienced covering 2,652 miles over 166 days.
Would we do it again? – Originally I had said a resounding ‘No’, but finishing this post in retrospect some months later, we have already said that we would like to tackle the PCT again but with fresh eyes and a new perspective by travelling SOBO. But there is plenty of the world to see and hike before we make any firm plans on that!
In Case You’re Wondering…
Just a few stats for your entertainment: – We spent 142 nights in a tent compared with 24 nights in a real bed and enjoyed 18 zero days off-trail staying in towns along the route where we picked up our food resupplies. This is not our definitive food list, but predominantly we ate our way through: 408 flour tortillas, 152 packets of tuna, 50 packets of Spam, 64 packets of instant mashed potato (Idahoans are the best!), 62 Danish pastries along with 144 breakfast bars, 320 chocolate bars, 390 energy bars and 186 cheese sticks. We used 240 tea bags, cooked using 18 gas cannisters, and in trail towns we demolished 32 burgers, 10 pizzas and 6 lots of fish and chips, not forgetting treating ourselves to copious amounts of alcohol! (America has a wonderful selection of IPAs and wine boxes!)
In total we spent approximately £12,000 hiking the PCT (that’s pounds not dollars), not including gear we already owned, or new gear we bought prior to hiking the trail, (e.g. better, lighter down sleeping bags, down jackets, trail shoes, and a new backpack for myself), insurance, Visas, and flights to America, which totalled around another £4,000. But we can genuinely say every penny was well-spent.
From immersing ourselves in a true wilderness experience witnessing some of the most incredible scenery the world has to offer, to meeting the great many like-minded people up and down the trail, to being on the receiving end of numerous wonderful acts of kindness from complete strangers – we feel wholly privileged to have been part of such an amazing trail community.
Do we still enjoy hiking? Yes! Would we tackle another long distance trail? – Since returning home and being back at ‘work’ the past three months, we’d step back into the wilderness in a heartbeat.
12 Comments
Wow, wow and wow (Oh, I’m wonderfully inventive with descriptive words!!)
Firstly, many, many congratulations to you both in completing the trail. That was a fantastic achievement that not that many people will ever achieve even thinking about doing, never mind about actually walking it. I know that this trip will keep you stocked up with memories for the rest of your lives!
Secondly, many thanks that you both took soooooo much time, effort and commitment to write, photograph and post what has been a wonderful trail diary. That commitment is really impressive, especially as a walking diary writer I know how hard it is to even remember my name after a long day, never mind about writing such wonderful and expressive tales before crashing in to a deep sleep. I’m certainly going to miss my daily hit of reading about your adventures and being inspired by the way you stood up and overcame the many trials and tribulations that the trail threw your way.
I look forward to hearing about your next big adventures and am wondering who you have lined up for the film version (Tom Cruise and Nicolle Kidman??), hopefully being shown in a cinema near us very soon!!
Best wishes for the future and . . . . .
. . . by the way, one thing has been leaving me scratching my head . . how on earth did you manage to transport your chocolate bars, especailly in California, without having your rucksacs looking like a chocolate fondue set???
John
Hi John,
Thank you so much for your wonderful comments. It always makes the task of writing that bit easier after reading such positive feedback. 🙂
I can’t quite believe that we had arrived in San Diego this time last year and were almost ready to set off on the trail. Time has flown by so quickly, but like you say, the memories are everlasting!
We didn’t eat many chocolate bars at the start of the trail – it wasn’t until we arrived in Bishop and found them for ‘bulk buy’ from the Smart & Final supermarket that we began eating about 4 bars a day going back into the Sierra. They generally kept OK in the bear cans and as temperatures increased, we would eat them early on in the morning. The worst was on a red hot day at Burney Guest Ranch. We collected our resupply box and by the time we were repacking things, most of the bars were liquid chocolate, so we binned them! After eating so many Snickers bars, I’d gladly never eat one again – even now!
We’re heading up to the Lake District on Sunday for a week’s backpacking to bag some more Wainwrights and then we’re off to Spain for the summer as we loved the Pyrenees so much during our section hike of the GR11 in 2017. Now spring is here and the clocks have turned, we just can’t wait to get back outdoors!
Best regards, Danielle & Wayne
You had me worried about you both by waiting so long to post this final installment. I was afraid something bad might have happened to one or both of you.
Congratulations on completing the PCT and especially for continuing your tradition of posting your commentary and photographs.
I enjoyed reading your posts and looking at the photos. I am afraid doing the entire PCT is not going to happen for me. I am more a fair weather hiker and one who picks just the best parts to hike not every link and step between here and there. Also very glad to hear your relationship survived the months of constant togetherness.
Congratulations again!
Thanks Garry!
I literally haven’t had a minute since returning to work, so sorry about the long wait for the finale post. I got it finished – eventually!
It’s been great reading your comments and having you follow along with us every step of the way. 🙂
Have you got any plans for the summer?
Best regards,
Danielle
I have thoroughly enjoyed following your adventures; congratulations on successfully completing your thru hike! Your writing style keeps the reader completely engaged. With the addition of some spectacular photos Trek Snappy was my go-to 2018 PCT blog. Thank you for putting your time, effort & heart into this so we may experience the PCT.
As a side note, you crossed paths with my son, Germanator, early in the Desert.
Hey Maggie, thank you so much for taking the time to comment. Your feedback is much appreciated – especially saying that Treksnappy was your ‘go-to blog for 2018’. 🙂
Did Germanator finish the trail? We always looked for the names of people we had met in the trail registers, but we were never sure who had overtaken us or had fallen behind after we had taken a few zeros here & there. I remember him taking naps at the side of the trail on an extremely hot day prior to reaching Wrightwood, but then I don’t think we saw him again after our impromptu stay at the Acton KOA. Wish him our best! 🙂
Kind regards, Danielle & Wayne
To say that I have thoroughly enjoyed reading the whole story is an understatement, as is the simple word “congratulations”. Its strange that having read this I am filled in equal measure by a desire to take on the PCT some day and the fact that I don’t think my knees could carry me that far but I live in hope. I still struggle to get my head around the planning and logistics of the whole endeavour, the bounce boxes, resupplies of food and gear, visas, permits etc as well the overall plan to complete such a massive trip within a fairly constrained time window. Many many thanks for taking so much time to create these posts and photos (I need to catch up on Wayne’s video diaries) – At least I have an invaluable information source if I ever do decide to give it a go! 🙂
Andy
Thank you so much Andy! It has been great having you follow along with us. We really appreciate the time you have taken to comment on each blog post. 🙂
Can you believe it? It has almost been an entire year since we started the trail, and looking back, in some ways it doesn’t even seem real. Thank goodness for videos and trail diaries 😉 I got there in the end with the last blog post!
Have you got any plans of your own for the summer?
Best regards, Danielle & Wayne
I am delighted to have followed your journey. Really moving and heartwarming. I discovered the both of you when researching the Kungsleden which I hiked in 2018 (adding the Vista Valley detour and then going to the Norwegian border due to excess time before my booked train from Abisko. Today I have received your Penine Way book (it is selling at a premium on Amazon as a secondhander!). I hiked the GR20 before you but in 14 rather than 11 days (though I took the official final day rather than the ‘cheat’ low route…..). Anyway, I have done 6 days of the GR10 so plan to complete that when I have found your blog. I would love some background information on 1) your equipment 2) your planning and 3) your electronic gear. I am much older than you but rest assured you are genuine inspirers! All best – Filly
Hi Filly, thanks for your comments. It sounds like you are well-experienced with hiking having done some fantastic trails yourself!
Due to work commitments, the blog has taken a back seat for a while, which is what usually happens when we get back from a big trip. I made trail notes last summer in preparation for writing up blog posts of our journey from the Atlantic to the Med via a combination of the Gr10, HRP, and GR11, which will hopefully be online over the coming months.
We haven’t hiked any of those trails in their entirety, but picked our route between the 3 based on resupply towns and points of interest.
Wayne plans our intended route using the ViewRanger app. You can purchase tiles for each country and plot your route between points. Beforehand, we use a combination of online information (blogs/ walking routes/ photos that spark our interest) and travel guides (Cicerone Press usually) in deciding where we want to hike and in which direction.
We plan which towns we can resupply in and try to carry no more than 3 day’s worth of food if possible.
Our equipment has been upgraded over time to lightweight options where possible, and we have ditched a lot of ‘extras’ (non-essential kit) based on our mindset for the PCT. We still hike with Osprey packs, but we are on our 2nd packs due to wear and tear on the originals. We used a Big Agnes 3 person tent for the PCT, but have since upgraded to the ‘2-person hotel’ and found the vestibule invaluable in the Pyrenees on wet days. We upgraded our original Rab Neutrino down sleeping bags to PHD Minim 400 down sleeping bags for the PCT and have since stuck with these. We’ve tried several different sleeping pads over the years with them all failing eventually due to leaky valves or punctures, but our current favourites are the Sea to Summit Comfort Light Insulated pads. We use walking poles (Black Diamond) and a recent addition to our kit, which we think is worth the extra 500 grams each, are Helinox Chair Zeros. Some people laugh at us as they are real luxuries, but on a long distance hike like the PCT, we missed having a chair to sit on the most, so these are great for the lower back when cooking and when the ground is rocky. And we justify it as it’s only like carrying an extra bottle of water! Another other specific queries about kit – please ask.
Electronic gear – we used to charge our phones with solar panels in the early days of hiking, but since we’ve upgraded our phones, they don’t seem to be powerful enough to charge them. Now we carry power packs, enough for 4 charges each. In the meantime, we turn off data and keep our phone use to a minimum unless we are in a town. Wayne sometimes uses his to check on navigation, but he also takes paper maps so he’s not reliant on the technology. We know that we need to recharge items at least once a week e.g. camera batteries, so we usually stay at a campsite or bed and breakfast/ hotel at least once week for this reasoning (a proper shower is also good!)
Hope this info helps! We are always looking at new stuff, but we also like to get the best value for money out of things so if they still function, we will use them until they basically wear out. Also, Wayne checks the reviews of everything online and deliberates for ages before he makes a purchase!
If there’s anything more specific you’d like to know, then please ask. You could send us an email or a direct message on our Facebook page if you prefer.
We are off to hike the Pennine Way again this summer, so you never know, our paths might cross one day!
Best regards for your future hikes,
Danielle & Wayne
I have so enjoyed reading your story over the last couple of weeks (though it has eaten away a fair bit of my time!) What an incredible trip, and how fortunate to do it when you did. I stumbled across your blog looking at the Pyrenees section as hope to do a little hiking there in the next couple of years. I particularly enjoyed reading about all your camp food!
I really enjoyed reading your trip blog from start to finish. However, there are some parts that made me sad as someone who literally grew up in almost all of the ranges that you hiked through. Heck, you have pictures of more than a few lakes I have slept next to. I grew up in the San Bernardino mountains in Lake Arrowhead, just down the road from Big Bear, went to college in the Northwest, and I now teach skiing in the lake tahoe area (weekend job only.) What saddens me is how much fire changed the landscape, in many places permanently. Many of the areas that you went through that are now desert, were pine forests in my youth. Seeing your pictures of Deep Creek Canyon, where we used to swim and play in the early ’70s, just stunned me. That was a place deep in the forest (not where the hot springs are, we were too scared of getting a “brain amoeba.”) Nonetheless, thank you for a wonderful description of your trip, it really has inspired me to bet back out there.