“Travel is… about learning, about crossing boundaries and mastering the fear of strangers, about making the effort to understand other cultures and thereby empowering yourself”.
– Fatima Mernissi
Taking in the views of Taipei city from Elephant Mountain with Taipei 101 dominating the skyline. Formerly known as the ‘Taipei World Financial Centre’, the skyscraper designed to resemble a giant bamboo stalk was officially the world’s tallest building from 2004 to 2010.
Exploring Kenting, Kaohsiung & Taipei
From whiling away the hours on the windswept, secluded beaches of Kenting on Taiwan’s southern tip, to wandering through the streets of the modern metropolis and cultural kaleidoscope of Taipei, Taiwan’s capital city in the north, our final month in Asia saw us wind down somewhat on the beautiful island of Taiwan.
Taiwan, officially called the Republic of China (ROC), had never really been on our radar before despite our previous visits to China. However, with us not wanting to return to England until mid-December 2018 as we had planned to surprise our parents for Christmas, Taiwan seemed to present itself as an irresistible option. Not only would we be able to enjoy a ‘beach holiday’ before returning home and ultimately back to work, it made sense as the island was so accessible. From Shanghai, our final stop in China, we could reach Kaohsiung, Taiwan’s second largest city, via a low-cost airline in less than 2 and a half hours for less than 200 dollars. Even more convenient was the fact that we wouldn’t have to undertake a lengthy visa application process as UK nationals (along with several other countries who have signed visa-waiver agreements) have been granted visa-free entrance to Taiwan for short-trips (up to 90 days). So it was agreed! We would spend our final 3 weeks in Asia exploring ‘Ilha Formosa’ as it was once named by Portuguese explorers in the 16th century – meaning the ‘beautiful island‘.
Located off the southeastern coast of China, the island has been governed independently from mainland China since 1949, however it still claims Taiwan as part of its territory under its “One China Principle”. Having done a little research via the web, we discovered that Taiwan is about the same size as Belgium but with a hefty population of almost 24 million. Shaped roughly like a tobacco leaf, the island is 394 kilometres (245 miles) long and 144 kilometres (89.5 miles) wide at its broadest point. Having walked the entire 267 miles of the Pennine Way in three weeks, we knew this would be ample time for us to explore the main highlights of the island and even enjoy some relaxing days too.
Home to nine national parks that boast beaches, mountains, valleys, and even dormant volcanoes, Taiwan showcases such natural beauty that several major film productions including ‘Silence‘ and ‘Life of Pi‘ took advantage of its scenery. With about two-thirds of the island covered with forested peaks and the Central Mountain Range bisecting Taiwan from north to south however, it has meant that cities and populations are mainly concentrated in the plains and basins of the west. Due to this separation, we realised that connecting between the west and east would not be very convenient, hence we decided to focus on the western side of the island as travelling between the very south and far north on this side was both easy, fast and inexpensive.
Map of Taiwan, courtesy of Google Maps
Our Starting Point – Kaohsiung, Taiwan’s Second Largest City
As flights to Kaohsiung were cheaper than those to the capital city, Taipei, we decided to begin our journey in Taiwan’s second largest city Kaohsiung, located on the southwest of the island. Not only is the city the island’s largest industrial centre, but it is Kaohsiung Harbour, currently the fourth largest container port in the world, that continues to play an important role in Taiwan’s economic development. As we quickly discovered however, there is much more to this underrated city than just the harbour. Full of night markets, temples, and an array of good restaurants, Kaohsiung is also renowned for some of the best street food in the world. The local passion for street food and the ‘small eats’ culture (small bites that you can carry around and munch on), means that eating out can be quite a cheap alternative to cooking at home, so we were expecting prices to be at least similar to our experiences in China. Having already sampled some amazing gastronomic delights over on the Chinese mainland, we were eager to see what Taiwan had to offer and whether there would be any differences in culinary tastes and techniques, particularly as the food scene in China had vastly improved since our first visit in 2007.
Staying at J-Hotel for 3 nights (No. 486-1, Jiuru 2nd Road, Sanmin District, 807 Kaohsiung, Taiwan) a business hotel located just a short walk from the Kaohsiung Main Station, a railway and metro station in Sanmin District that provides easy access to the heart of the city from the airport, we quickly got our bearings and headed to the Liuhe Night Market. Located in the Sinsing District, during the day Liuhe 2nd Road looks like any other road with thru traffic and storefronts. But after 6:00pm, the barriers go up and for the length of three entire blocks it becomes a pedestrian market for both locals and tourists. This was very much reminiscent of the sprawling night markets we had originally experienced across China during our travels in 2011. Yet this time around, with the development of shopping malls complete with their own food halls, more fast food chains, and the rise of the ‘cafe culture’, it seemed like traditional night markets were becoming superfluous to requirements.
On arrival in Kaohsiung, we were pleasantly surprised to find a Christmas tree and decorations in the Kaohsiung Main Station despite the fact that only around 5% of Taiwanese are Christian and Christmas is not a national holiday.
Tasty Taiwanese Treats From Liuhe Tourist Night Market
At the night market, we found a wide variety of snacks, hot foods, and interesting things to try. Some of the common local dishes included ‘Beef Noodle Soup’, ‘Oyster Pancake’, ‘Wontons’, ‘Spicy Hot Pot’, ‘Mango Shaved Ice’, ‘Boba Tea or Bubble Tea’, and ‘Stinky Tofu’ (something we try to avoid at all costs as it really does smell like a sewer!) Scattered amongst the food stalls were several clothing and souvenir vendors as well, offering everything from budget-priced sunglasses to glazed pottery. We also enjoyed perusing the various ‘amusements and games’ on offer which seemed to draw in the crowds, the most popular of which was ‘Fish the Bottle’ – where you had to hold a fishing rod and line and expertly hook a metal ring around the top of a beer bottle. To everyone we saw attempting such a feat, it appeared frustratingly difficult!
Heading to the Liuhe Night Market to sample some culinary delights on our first night in the city. During our travels, we have found no other sausage to be comparable to those we enjoy at home – namely the ‘Lincolnshire’. So after several months of searching for a ‘proper’ sausage, who could refuse?
They look like ‘proper’ sausages – but will they taste like them?
We’re all for trying new things! Wayne samples a Taiwanese sausage encased in sticky rice. We have to admit though, after tasting it we weren’t completely sold on the new concept.
The real highlight of this night market is fresh seafood with many stands selling crab, shrimp, octopus, and squid, as well as several other strange looking oddities not known to the English palate!
Sightseeing Along The Love River
Next on the agenda was a walk along the ‘Love River’ to ‘Love Pier’, by which Kaohsiung Harbour is otherwise known. It proved to be an interesting walk, passing by cafés and bars complete with outdoor seating overlooking the river, which flows 12 kilometres (7.5 miles) through Kaohsiung to the harbour. The Love River is the spine of Kaohsiung, playing a similar role to the River Thames of London, and holds great cultural significance for the people of the city. After an effort to clear the river of sewage, it is now used for sightseeing, with duck boats, love boats and gondola rides operating for tourists to enjoy the city view.
Heading for a walk along the Love River, which has become the focal point for the city. On the banks, a number of parks and green areas have been developed making it a very pleasant walk away from the hustle and bustle of the main city.
We passed the monument of ‘Love’ and it was evident that the city council has invested a lot of money and time in cleaning up and developing the area – particularly with the construction of the walkways and cycle lanes that run the length of the river to the harbour.
A quirky place to take a pit-stop! The actual work that had gone into making bricks look so comfy was incredible!
Crossing the suspension bridge in Jhongdou Wetlands Park. The park is located along the Love River and covers an area of 12.6 hectares. It connects the green and open spaces along the waterfront, forming an ecological wetland corridor network.
Looking towards the Ambassador Hotel Kaohsiung, a luxurious 5-star hotel located on the banks of the Love River.
Exploring The Pier-2 Art District
A further day of wandering around the city led us to the ‘Pier-2 Art District’ – an area that consists of 25 old warehouses that have been repainted and given a new lease of life as art galleries, boutiques, shops, cafes, restaurants and exhibition halls. This district is divided into many areas showcasing different art exhibits and also includes several museums and a theatre. The main building, Pier 2 Warehouse, was once a sugar storage but now houses different contemporary art throughout the year and the surrounding grounds are full of modern art sculptures, statues and decorated buildings. Although the KRT O2 Yanchengpu Station is located close by, there are miles of walking paths and a cycle track that cuts through the art district making it enjoyable to explore on foot or by bike. We even discovered a micro-brewery selling craft beers opposite the ‘Banana Pier’ building, which was the perfect refreshment stop!
Over recent years, the Kaohsiung City Council has been both supportive and proactive on the subject of public art with a policy dedicated to enhancing the urban environments with colourful street art.
Wandering through the ‘Pier 2’ Art District, the surrounding grounds are full of modern art sculptures, statues and decorated buildings including this inventive, endless loop sculpture made from red shipping containers.
The industrial railroad which once passed through the area has been converted into an open-air museum and public art is scattered everywhere. A popular sculpture is the 2-story high replica Transformer ‘Bumblebee’.
A key part of the redevelopment project was that ‘Pier 2’ gave local street artists a legal space in which to paint. The huge walls of the once-empty warehouses are the perfect canvas!
The ‘Kaohsiung Exhibition Centre’ was the first harbour redevelopment project undertaken. The design is a dramatic wave-like structure emphasising Kaohsiung’s strong relationship with the sea.
Heading towards the Penglai Pier-2 Light Rail Tram stop.
Returning For More…
We enjoyed our time in Kaohsiung so much that 3 nights just wasn’t enough. So after travelling to the southern tip of the island and spending 7 nights in Kenting town, we returned to Kaohsiung for a further 5 nights before heading north to Taiwan’s capital city Taipei. As it was almost Christmas, we treated ourselves to a 4-star hotel with swimming pool and gym for a relaxing few days prior to our return to the UK. Although Booking.com is our go to site for accommodation, we found a really good deal on Agoda for the Holiday Garden Hotel (279, Liu-Ho 2nd Road, Cianjin District, Kaohsiung, Taiwan), which included a daily buffet breakfast for approximately £60 per night. And how could we resist a contemporary room dedicated to Elvis?!
Our plush bathroom suite was decorated with Elvis memorabilia.
Making the most of the sunshine before heading home to a wintry UK.
We had chosen this hotel based on the fact it was located in the heart of the city and had a swimming pool. We were therefore disappointed to find out after checking in that the pool was only open 7am – 11am due to it being Taiwan’s ‘winter’ season. At 30°C it didn’t exactly feel like winter but as you can tell from how popular the pool was – sunbathing is not a Taiwanese past-time!
Travelling South To Kenting Town
The next stop on our Taiwan tour was a visit to the Kenting National Park area, complete with a 7-night stay on the southern tip of the island in popular Kenting town. This is the park’s main resort, which is home to numerous restaurants, street-food stalls, bars and nightlife.
We stayed at the Mangyi Inn (No. 402-16, Kending Road, 946 Kenting, Taiwan) and couldn’t believe our luck at finding an extremely well-equipped double room with private bathroom, fridge and seating area for less than £15 per night! It was perfectly located just a short walk from the beach and a 7-11 grocery store, but conveniently tucked away from the noise of the street bars and the hustle and bustle of Kenting’s sprawling Night Market, which attracts local visitors from all over Taiwan as well as international travellers.
We discovered a real treat in Kenting town but without the hefty price tag of Kaohsiung city!
Kenting National Park Highlights
Showcasing white-sand beaches, caves, coral reefs, and lush rolling mountains, this lesser-known Taiwanese destination occupying the Hengchun Peninsula was well worth the trip south. After our initial 3 days walking the streets of Kaohsiung city, it felt good to return to nature and spend some time away from a busy urban environment.
Established on January 1st, 1984, Kenting National Park is Taiwan’s oldest and southernmost national park on the main island. Renowned for its tropical climate, lush forests and splendid beaches, it is but one of 9 National Parks in Taiwan. With coral sea cliffs teemed with fringing reefs along the west coast, the park features a large number of mountains in the north, and coral tablelands and foothills in the south, covering a total area of around 180 square kilometres.
We had every intention of hiring scooters to explore as much of the southern part of the island as possible, however the beaches were so beautiful we ended up spending more time relaxing than exploring. That being said, we did take a run ‘up the hill’ one day into the ‘Forest Recreation Area’ to burn off some of the extra calories we had been consuming after sampling several irresistible treats at the Night Market!
Between the Maobitou peninsula on the west and Eluanbi peninsula on the east, is Kenting’s most popular tourist area, with the highest concentration of beaches and resorts as well as restaurants, bars and cafés. Nanwan (South Bay), is in the crook where Maobitou and the main body of the Hengchun Peninsula meet. This is the most popular locale for swimming and water sports, complete with changing rooms, showers, and shops renting all necessary gear. If you’re looking for a bit more peace and relaxation however, at Kenting’s eastern end, directly across Highway 26 from two of the park’s major resort hotels, is Xiaowan or ‘Little Bay’ beach. Set in a secluded cove, with its white sands and warm, turquoise waters, this beach quickly became our favourite spot, not least because we had it to ourselves for much of the day!
We discovered that the name ‘Kenting’ refers to “Strong men opening up the land for farming”, specifically men recruited in China during the Guangxu reign (1871-1908) of the Qing dynasty and sent to Taiwan to open up and cultivate the land.
The Kenting National Park includes several stretches of picturesque coastline. At last I got my much-desired ‘tropical beach holiday’ after our 2,600 mile jaunt on the PCT!
Looking onto ‘Little Bay’ beach. A sheltered cove located at the eastern end of town, it is a lovely, secluded spot for some peace and relaxation.
Typical guesthouses along the main road in Kenting. After 5pm, this is the road on which the ‘Night Market’ sets up. Sprawling for 2 kilometres, it offers everything from souvenirs and accessories to traditional Taiwanese snacks, tropical fruits and fresh seafood.
Escaping the crowds! We enjoyed our time on Little Bay Beach the most as we virtually had it to ourselves for the best part of the day.
Exploring a little further. The coral reefs and golden sand at Baisha Beach.
Watching sunset from Little Bay Beach. This is the time when Chinese / Taiwanese tour groups tend to descend on the beach en masse each evening prior to their visit to the Night Market.
A Visit To Kenting National Forest Recreation Area
Set inland, behind the main resort town of Kenting, is the Kenting National Forest Recreational Area. Showcasing a beautiful reef landscape with tropical plants, limestone caves, cliffs, canyons, stalagmites, stalactites, and other geological wonders, it is well worth a visit to get a feel for Taiwan’s unique natural beauty as a subtropical volcanic island.
We did a 6 km run (12 km round-trip) from our guesthouse up to the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area along the Gongyuan Road to just beyond the Sheding Nature Park. Taking a break to explore the National Forest area, the entrance fee was NT$150 (approx. £4) per adult.
Setting off on the ‘Forest Trail’, which includes passing a giant ‘Autumn Maple’, the ‘Flower Garden’, ‘Cactus Collection’ and the ‘Looking-Glass Mangrove’.
Entering the ‘Valley of Hanging Fig Roots’.
A major feature of the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area is the limestone terrain. Geological treasures such as stalactites and stalagmites can be seen in the Yinlong Cave and Stalagmite Cave.
Following the ‘Fair Cave Trail’ and heading down into the ‘Fairy Cave’.
The uplifted coral reef terrain provides hidden habitats and is therefore rich in animal species. Fifteen species of mammals, 75 species of birds, 111 species of butterflies, 30 species of land crabs, 25 species of reptiles and 8 species of amphibians have been recorded in the area. Thankfully, we didn’t see any poisonous snakes or wasps!
Heading up the ‘Seaview Tower’ located near the ‘Silver Dragon Cave’, we were treated to expansive views of the peaks to the north of the park.
Sampling Street Food At Kenting Night Market
Every evening by 6pm, the main street running through Kenting turns into a bustling night market. Starting from the Kenting National Park entrance, the long line of food, drinks, souvenirs and game stands stretches 2 kilometres east to the Caesar Park Hotel and feels never ending! Being a seaside town, the main highlight of the Kenting Night Market is seafood. Simply pick whatever you want to eat and have it cooked fresh on the spot. A few of the local specialties of this market include grilled squid, oysters, clams, soft-shelled crabs, sweet potato spirals, corn dogs, mini balls, spit roasted pigs knuckles and sea cucumbers. The market has a good atmosphere and with the truck ‘bars’ and music along the way, after sampling a few cocktails and Taiwanese snacks we were feeling the holiday vibes!
Deep-fried ‘balls’ with various fillings are a popular Taiwanese snack. We couldn’t help but find this stall’s advertising to be highly amusing!
A Bus Ride To Hengchun Township
As our guesthouse had an outdoor seating area and a barbeque for the use of guests, during our final weekend staying in Kenting we decided to cook for ourselves. This posed a problem however as there are no supermarkets in the town, just a small selection of convenience stores like ‘7-11‘. Although perfectly stocked for essentials, we wanted a good choice of fresh produce to select from. Plus, we also needed to purchase BBQ coals, otherwise without these, it would put a swift end to our plans!
Our best option therefore was to take the local hop-on/ hop-off bus along the coastal road north to the ancient township of Hengchun in search of a proper supermarket. As the peninsula’s largest settlement, and the national park’s gateway town, we knew that the facilities in Hengchun should meet our requirements, so off we went. Alighting from the bus at the South Gate, we quickly found a street market selling a whole array of fresh fruit and vegetables. Conveniently located along the main road, we also found a well-stocked supermarket called ‘Pxmart’ where we were able to purchase BBQ coals, fresh meat and fish, as well as some Taiwanese gin! (It was quite an unexpected find – so how could we resist? ‘Holiday mode’ was now in full swing after all!)
With Wayne eager to prepare some tasty dishes and get the barbeque lit, we didn’t hang around in Hengchun once our shopping list was complete. So it was back to Kenting in readiness for a BBQ feast, but with a Taiwanese twist!
Visiting the ancient township of Hengchun by local bus was approximately a 30-minute journey. The South Gate of Hengchun is probably the most well-maintained of the 4 gates. It is best viewed from across the road, as it acts as a roundabout for traffic passing through the town.
Just one of the colourful side streets of Hengchun old town decorated with lanterns and flower bunting.
Back at our guesthouse, Wayne begins cooking up a BBQ feast.
Sampling some Taiwanese gin complete lime and tonic. To be perfectly honest – it was rough stuff!
How To Get To Kenting From Kaohsiung
It was both easy and hassle-free to get to Kenting National Park from Kaohsiung because of Taiwan’s great public transport network. We literally hopped on the ‘Kenting Express’ bus from Kaohsiung Zuoying High Speed Rail Station after purchasing tickets from the ‘Kenting Express Service Counter’ located inside the station on the upper floor. The buses run approximately every 30 minutes and are both clean and comfortable for the 2 and a half hour journey with air-conditioning and free Wi-fi. It cost us NT$550 per person (approximately £15 each) for a round-trip ticket.
City Sightseeing In Taipei – Taiwan’s Capital
After leaving Kenting and returning to Kaohsiung for five nights, our final stop in Taiwan was a 4-night stay in Taipei, Taiwan’s capital city and cultural and economic hub. From the finest in shopping and design, to traditional markets and ancient museums, Taipei is the heart of Taiwan. A fusion of old and new with food vendors and night markets lining narrow streets surrounded by historic buildings, to gleaming skyscrapers, equipped with some of the world’s fastest elevators dominating the skyline, there is an attraction for every visitor.
As with most capital cities, prices for accommodation were significantly higher than anywhere else we had stayed in Taiwan, so we booked a private double room with ensuite at the We Come Hostel (2F, No 26, Gangu Street, Datong District, 103 Taipei, Taiwan) for NT$7,700 for four nights (approximately £50 per night). With breakfast included and a communal seating/ kitchen area for guests, the hostel was a good, clean budget option that was well-positioned in the historic area – the most famous street nearby, Dihua Street, being the the oldest street in Taipei.
After a visit to a nearby Carrefour supermarket to buy groceries, we enjoyed a home-cooked meal at the hostel.
The Longshan Temple, Wanhua District
With just 3 days to explore the city, we headed first to the Wanhua District to visit the Longshan Temple. Located in Taipei’s most historic neighbourhood, it is one of the most popular religious sites in Taiwan. Built in 1738, the temple was originally intended to serve the locally based settlers that had moved to the area from the province of Fujian. This centuries-old structure is impressive not just because of its appearance but also due to the fact that it has survived bombings, earthquakes, typhoons and fires. The decoration throughout is both intricate and beautiful, and it’s a wonderfully peaceful haven in an extremely crowded and busy city.
Dating back to 1738, Longshan Temple is one of the oldest temples in the city and probably the most well-known in all of Taiwan. In a region that has suffered many devastating earthquakes and natural disasters, the fact that this temple has survived is nothing short of miraculous.
Temples remain extremely important in the daily lives of Taiwanese both young and old. They visit them to ask for love, luck, children, good scores in exams, to see off those who have passed away, burn joss paper, celebrate the new year, and more. The large temple complex of Longshan is always bursting with activity and devotion, starting with an impressive Buddhist chanting ceremony that takes place every morning at 6am and 8am, lasting nearly an hour each time.
Longshan Temple is a wonderful mix of the Taoist, Buddhist, and Confucian faiths. Taiwan has always been inclusive in its attitude towards religion, and Longshan Temple is the embodiment of that inclusive spirit.
Liberty Square, Zhongzheng District
One of the most impressive and beautiful places that we found in Taipei was Liberty Square. Also known as Freedom Square, this monumental public plaza covers an area of more than 240,000 square metres in the Zhongzheng District of Taipei. This square is the most important point for public meetings and events in the city and is where four prominent buildings can be found, namely the Gate of Great Centrality and Perfect Uprightness, the National Theatre, the National Concert Hall and the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall.
Erected in memory of Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek, former President of the Republic of China, and completed in 1980, the Memorial Hall has since become a famous national monument, landmark and tourist attraction. Flanked on the north and south by the National Theatre and National Concert Hall, it is a striking white building with a blue roof that is octagonal in shape. This specific shape picks up the symbolism of the number eight, a number traditionally associated in China with abundance and good fortune.
Two sets of white stairs, each with 89 steps to represent Chiang’s age at the time of his death, lead to the main entrance. The ground level of the memorial houses a library and a museum documenting Chiang Kai-shek’s life and career, with exhibits detailing Taiwan’s history and development. The upper level contains the main hall, in which a large statue of Chiang Kai-shek is located, and where a guard mounting ceremony takes place at regular intervals.
At 30 metres tall and 80 metres wide, the entrance gate to Liberty Square is both huge and spectacular. Known as the ‘Gate of Great Centrality and Perfect Uprightness’ it is considered one of the greatest monuments and landmarks in Taiwan.
Standing in the centre of the vast expanse that is Liberty Square. With such an enormous open space between the buildings you can turn 360 degrees and be dazzled by how grand and monumental everything looks.
A ‘Boulevard of Homage’, bordered by manicured bushes, connects the Memorial Hall with the square.
Looking towards the main entrance gate, the ‘Gate of Great Centrality and Perfect Uprightness’, which is located at the western end of the square.
A beautiful example of Taiwanese architecture, the construction of the National Theatre and National Concert Hall was completed in 1987. As twin buildings and mirror images, they flank the memorial hall to the north and south.
The main building within Liberty Square, the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, is located at the east end of the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Park.
A statue of Chiang Kai-shek sits in the main chamber of the Memorial Hall.
Leave The City Behind In Taipei’s Botanical Garden, Zhongzheng District
Also located in the Zhongzheng District and within walking distance of both the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall and Longshan Temple, is Taipei’s Botanical Garden. The gardens have no admission fee and are open daily from 5:30am until 10pm. Having devised our own walking tour around the city, we found the gardens to be a wonderful place to enjoy the fresh air and escape the crowds for a while.
Founded in 1896 by the Japanese who introduced new plants from all over Asia for research and experimentation purposes, ‘Taipei Nursery’ as it was then known was redeveloped and expanded to become a botanical garden after new plants were introduced in 1921. Largely deserted during World War Two, after the war the garden was rearranged again and further new plants were introduced. Now occupying 82,000 square metres of land in Downtown Taipei and boasting over 2000 species of plants, the garden serves as a research centre for the Taiwan Forestry Research Institute as well as a free public park for everyone to enjoy.
Each area of the garden has a different theme including the Lotus Pond, Literature Garden, and Chinese Zodiac Garden. Designated wooden and metal pathways guide you around the park, and each plant is labelled with its name and country of origin. The park is also home to the remaining areas of the ancient Taipei Lake where bird watching and photographing the water lilies are popular past-times with the locals.
Taipei Botanical Garden provides a wonderful retreat for those seeking some peace and tranquility in the heart of the city.
‘The National Museum of History’ and ‘National Taiwan Arts Education Centre’ are also located next to the garden if time allows you to explore further.
Climbing Elephant Mountain, Xinyi District, For Views Of Taipei 101
Affording spectacular urban views, we found Elephant Mountain or Xiangshan to be the perfect place to enjoy Taipei’s city skyline. Officially known as the ‘Xiangshan Hiking Trail’ – it is both easy to get to, free and a nice activity for all visitors. The 650 metre climb is aided by a series of stairways that wind their way up the mountainside so for a reasonably fit person, it only takes around 15 minutes to reach the top after climbing a total of 600 steps. As you make your way up the stairs however, you’ll see a number of vantage points perfect for photos, interpretive panels, and plants and wildlife that you might want to stop to observe. Therefore, you may want to allow time for this and for taking a couple of breaks, so give yourself at least 30 minutes to reach the top.
The route starting from Xiangshan Metro Station is part of a series of trails that run through the Four Beasts of Taipei made up of four mountains – Elephant Mountain, Tiger Mountain, Lion Mountain, and Leopard Mountain. With the entire trail stretching a mere 1,450 metres, traversing these different peaks may keep you busy for a couple of hours, but Elephant Mountain is by the far the most popular and accessible.
It was a little confusing finding our way to the start of the trail as we arrived on foot from a different direction, but if arriving via Xiangshan Metro Station, the terminus of Red Line 2, leave from Exit 2 and continue walking alongside the edge of the park to get to the trailhead. At the end of this road, take a left and follow the path until you see the entrance for Xiangshan Hiking Trail, which is hard to miss with the large number of signs next to it, including one depicting a large elephant and Taipei 101. Still standing head and shoulders above the capital, despite losing its title in 2009 to Dubai’s Burj Khalifa as the world’s tallest building, Taipei 101 is the centrepiece of the iconic view from Elephant Mountain.
When Taipei 101 opened in 2004, the 1,667-feet-tall skyscraper with 101 floors (and an additional five floors underground) was the most famous of Taiwan’s modern architectural landmarks attracting huge numbers of tourists each week. Formerly known as the Taipei World Financial Centre, the building is made up of eight sections that incline outwards in a pagoda style with each section having eight floors, a very lucky number in local culture. There are also large circular protrusions on each side that symbolize old Chinese coins and the design overall is based on that of a stalk of bamboo, an icon of learning and growth.
If you have the energy and are keen to explore further, Elephant Mountain is just one trail in a network of pathways that traverse the ‘Four Beasts of Taipei’. This is made up of four mountains – Elephant Mountain, Tiger Mountain, Lion Mountain, and Leopard Mountain.
Offering spectacular views of Taipei both day and night, the most popular route of the ‘Four Beasts of Taipei’ is Elephant Mountain’ – a quick, 15 – 20 minute hike, easily accessible directly from the city.
From Elephant Mountain, there are 3 good viewing platforms to soak up the city skyline. This includes looking onto Taiwan’s most famous building – Taipei 101.
2018 ‘Christmasland’ In New Taipei City
New Taipei City certainly knows how to put on a great Christmas celebration! On our final day in Taipei, we headed to the north of the city to enjoy the ‘Christmasland’ celebrations located in front of New Taipei City Hall near the Banqiao Metro Station. Here we were treated to Taiwan’s largest and longest 3D projection light show as well as Christmas markets, winter playgrounds, Christmas concerts, light shows and fairground rides.
Although Christmas is not an official holiday in Taiwan, it is still marked by a great many people across the country and has become one of the most significant celebrations from November to December every year in Taiwan. It is therefore not uncommon to see shopping malls, stores, and households across Taiwan put up Christmas trees, display lights, and put on light shows at this time of the year. Quite unexpected, this was a wonderful treat for us and really got us in the Christmas spirit in readiness for our return to the UK!
This eye-catching, giant conical-shaped LED Christmas tree has been classed as one of the most amazing Christmas trees in the world!
A night-time spectacle! Enjoying the 2018 ‘Christmasland’ in New Taipei City with light shows galore before travelling home to the UK.
Scattered around the entire area near the New Taipei City Government Hall, including the New Taipei City Plaza, New Banqiao Central Park, Banqiao Station Building, and Banqiao Station Front Square were walkways of shimmering lights.
This illuminated flower wall was one of our particular favourites in the Banqiao area.
The Rainbow Bridge & Raohe Street Night Market
Our exploration of Taipei wouldn’t have been complete without a final visit to a night market to sample some more Taiwanese treats. But instead of visiting Shilin Night Market, often considered to be the largest and most famous in Taipei (now relocated indoors, making it more of a food court), we decided to take a walk across the iconic Rainbow Bridge and head instead to the Raohe Street Night Market, one of the oldest night markets in Taipei. The epitome of a traditional Taiwanese night market, after 6pm the 600 metre path along Raohe Street in Songshan District becomes packed with fun and interesting night foods and snacks, quaint shops and stalls, as well as carnival games with prizes.
As with every other night market we had visited in Taiwan, we found a variety of grilled, fried, steamed, torched, skewered, and candied dishes. But here, it was the ‘Black Pepper Buns‘ that we found irresistible. A classic Fujianese night market snack found just inside the gate at Raohe’s east entrance, these buns – crispy and golden brown on the outside, with a juicy spiced pork and green onion filling, were simply the best!
Taking a stroll across the Rainbow Bridge to the Raohe Street Night Market. The 167-metre long suspension bridge lies across the Keelung River, connecting Xinming Road in the Neihu District and Raohe Street in the Songshan District.
The Rainbow Bridge attracts many amateur photographers at night, when its illumination adds much to the beauty of the city’s nightscape.
Retaining the true character of a Taiwanese night market, we enjoyed sampling a variety of street food and snacks on offer at the historic ‘Raohe Street Night Market’ on our final night. (We don’t have any photos of the snacks we sampled as we had eaten them before we realised!)
Farewell Taiwan, Hello London!
Taiwan may not be a backpacker hub like some nearby Asian countries but it ticks many boxes when it comes to being an excellent independent travel destination, particularly in terms of its affordability. With cheap accommodation outside of central Taipei, street food all over the island and a first-rate high-speed rail network making it easy to get around, we certainly felt like we were getting value for money. That coupled with the fact it is an organised, developed country, we didn’t need a visa to enter, and that Taiwan has one of the lowest crime rates in the world – it seemed like the perfect destination to end our 9 month trip.
With an intriguing and complex history and no shortage of stunning natural sights, Taiwan did meet our expectations, but just like that, our 3 weeks were up! With so much to explore across the island, we felt like we had merely scratched the surface but that was our choice this time around to do less. To put things into perspective, it takes just 90 minutes to travel from Taipei in the far north to Kaohsiung City in the far south by high-speed rail, so in 3 weeks we would have had ample time to explore further afield, the island being so small. But after walking the entire length of the Pacific Crest Trail from Mexcio to Canada for the best part of 2018, followed by a busy couple of months in China, we needed a more relaxed itinerary in order to mentally prepare ourselves for going home.
The most convenient way for us to travel to Taipei’s Tuoyuan International Airport at 6am was by metro from the Taipei Main Station. The journey took around 40 minutes and cost NT$160 each (less than £5 per person.)
We flew home with ‘EVA Air’ – a Taiwanese international airline that stands for Evergreen Airways. Departing Taipei at 8:50am, followed by a quick stop-off in Bangkok, we finally touched down in London at 19:20pm after an 18 hour flight! (Our flight cost NT$21,516 in total, working out at around £250 each.)
Loving the Asian food provided on the plane!
Touch Down In London Town…
Wherever we are in the world, backpacking and hiking long distance trails always gives us a unique sense of freedom and independence so reaching the end of an extended trip brings with it an overwhelming sense of mixed emotions. For us, even though returning home is an inevitable part of the journey and has its highs of catching up with family and friends, after an amazing trip abroad, returning home and trying to live a ‘normal’ life again can sometimes feel impossible. This is particularly so as going home also means returning to work and getting back into the rhythms of a 9 to 5 day. After 9 months of travel, where the the majority of our time was spent in nature living out of a tent and being off-grid in the mountains of North America, it was no surprise to anyone that we had to psyche ourselves up for all of the responsibilities and pressures of being back in civilisation!
This time around, just like we had done in 2011, it certainly helped that we had planned a surprise return in time for Christmas! Flying to London on the 23rd December, then travelling home by train on Christmas Eve morning (having treated ourselves to a ‘First Class’ upgrade) in readiness to surprise both of our families made for an exciting return trip. Seeing their reactions and being able to celebrate Christmas with our loved ones worked perfectly in terms of easing our post-travel blues.
A surprise return! Heading home to North Nottinghamshire from Kings Cross Station in London eager to see our family and friends. As it was Christmas Eve, we had treated ourselves to ‘first class’ seats!
Combatting the post-travel blues… We had also treated ourselves to a bottle of fizz for the journey home!
New Travel Plans In The Making…
Another fail-proof way we have found to help us adjust back to ‘reality’ after an extended trip is to begin planning another. Hence, our idea to return to the Pyrenees in the Summer of 2019 and hike from the Atlantic to the Med was born… Returning to work would facilitate that, enabling us to save for a new adventure!
2 Comments
Facinating Taiwan but I cant wait to read of your return to the Pyrenees. Where did 2019 go?
Yes I know! The years and long distance walks are seeming to blur into one!
Just a shame we have to stop and work again 😉